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矿物油、葵花籽油和椰子油对预防头发损伤的作用。

Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage.

作者信息

Rele Aarti S, Mohile R B

机构信息

Research and Development Department, Nature Care Division, Marico Industries Ltd., Mumbai, India.

出版信息

J Cosmet Sci. 2003 Mar-Apr;54(2):175-92.

Abstract

Previously published results showed that both in vitro and in vivo coconut oil (CNO) treatments prevented combing damage of various hair types. Using the same methodology, an attempt was made to study the properties of mineral oil and sunflower oil on hair. Mineral oil (MO) was selected because it is extensively used in hair oil formulations in India, because it is non-greasy in nature, and because it is cheaper than vegetable oils like coconut and sunflower oils. The study was extended to sunflower oil (SFO) because it is the second most utilized base oil in the hair oil industry on account of its non-freezing property and its odorlessness at ambient temperature. As the aim was to cover different treatments, and the effect of these treatments on various hair types using the above oils, the number of experiments to be conducted was a very high number and a technique termed as the Taguchi Design of Experimentation was used. The findings clearly indicate the strong impact that coconut oil application has to hair as compared to application of both sunflower and mineral oils. Among three oils, coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss remarkably for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash and post-wash grooming product. Both sunflower and mineral oils do not help at all in reducing the protein loss from hair. This difference in results could arise from the composition of each of these oils. Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft. Mineral oil, being a hydrocarbon, has no affinity for proteins and therefore is not able to penetrate and yield better results. In the case of sunflower oil, although it is a triglyceride of linoleic acid, because of its bulky structure due to the presence of double bonds, it does not penetrate the fiber, consequently resulting in no favorable impact on protein loss.

摘要

先前发表的结果表明,体外和体内使用椰子油(CNO)处理均可防止各种发质的梳理损伤。采用相同的方法,尝试研究矿物油和向日葵油对头发的性能。选择矿物油(MO)是因为它在印度的发油配方中广泛使用,其性质不油腻,且比椰子油和向日葵油等植物油便宜。该研究扩展到向日葵油(SFO),因为它是发油行业中第二大常用基础油,因其不凝固特性以及在常温下无气味。由于目标是涵盖不同处理以及这些处理对使用上述油类的各种发质的影响,要进行的实验数量非常多,因此采用了一种称为田口实验设计的技术。研究结果清楚地表明,与向日葵油和矿物油相比,使用椰子油对头发有很强的影响。在这三种油中,椰子油是唯一一种在用作洗发前和洗发后护理产品时,能显著减少未受损和受损头发蛋白质流失的油。向日葵油和矿物油在减少头发蛋白质流失方面根本没有帮助。这些结果的差异可能源于每种油的成分。椰子油作为月桂酸(主要脂肪酸)的甘油三酯,对头发蛋白质具有高亲和力,并且由于其低分子量和直链结构,能够渗透到毛干内部。矿物油作为一种碳氢化合物,对蛋白质没有亲和力,因此无法渗透并产生更好的效果。就向日葵油而言,尽管它是亚油酸的甘油三酯,但由于双键的存在使其结构庞大,无法渗透到纤维中,因此对蛋白质流失没有产生有利影响。

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