A systematic method for the sensitive and specific determination of hair lipids in combination with chromatography.

A systematic method for the sensitive, precise and accurate determination of hair lipids, including trace amounts of intrinsic endogenous cholesterol (CH), ceramide/N-palmitoyl-DL-dihydrosphingosine (CER/PDS), cholesterol sulfate (CS) and chemically bound 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), has been developed in combination with TLC/FID (flame ionization detection), LC/MS and GC/MS. TLC/FID was used for the simultaneous determination of squalene (SQ), wax esters (WEs), triglycerides (TGs) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Optimal conditions for LC/MS to determine CS and 18-MEA were developed using selected ion monitoring (SIM) under the negative ion mode of electrospray ionization. An alternative procedure for the determination of 18-MEA was also established using commercially available heneicosanoic acid (HEA). In GC/MS, the optimal selection of ions for SIM of trimethylsilylated CH and CER/PDS, and the use of on-column injection has enabled their simultaneous detection. This newly developed method has been used to characterize the hair lipid composition from the proximal root end to the distal tip of chemically untreated hair fibers from two different females, and specific changes of hair lipids probably due to its origin and individuals have been demonstrated for the first time. This method may be useful for clarifying the important roles of intrinsic endogenous 18-MEA, CS, CH and CERs in the function of the cell membrane complex of hair fibers.