Bartels Volkmar T
Department of Clothing Physiology, Hohenstein Institutes, Boennigheim, Germany.
Curr Probl Dermatol. 2006;33:51-66. doi: 10.1159/000093936.
Statistics show that the wear comfort is the most important property of clothing demanded by users and consumers. Hence, biofunctional textiles only have a high market potential, if they are comfortable. In this work it is shown how the thermophysiological and skin sensorial wear comfort of biofunctional textiles can be measured effectively by means of the Skin Model and skin sensorial test apparatus. From these measurements, wear comfort votes can be predicted, assessing a textile's wear comfort in practice. These wear comfort votes match exactly the subjective perceptions of test persons. As a result validated by wearer trials with human test subjects, biofunctional textiles can offer the same good wear comfort as classical, non-biofunctional materials. On the other hand, some of the biofunctional treatments lead to a perceivably poorer wear comfort. In particular, the skin sensorial comfort is negatively affected by hydrophobic, smooth (flat) surfaces that easily cling to sweat-wetted skin, or which tend to make textiles stiffer. As guidelines for the improvement of the thermophysiological or skin sensorial wear comfort, it is recommended to use hydrophilic treatments in a suitable concentration and spun yarns instead of filaments.
统计数据表明,穿着舒适性是用户和消费者对服装要求的最重要属性。因此,只有生物功能纺织品穿着舒适时才具有高市场潜力。在这项工作中,展示了如何借助皮肤模型和皮肤感官测试仪器有效地测量生物功能纺织品的热生理和皮肤感官穿着舒适性。通过这些测量,可以预测穿着舒适性投票,从而在实际中评估纺织品的穿着舒适性。这些穿着舒适性投票与测试人员的主观感受完全相符。通过对人体测试对象进行的穿着者试验验证,生物功能纺织品可以提供与传统非生物功能材料相同良好的穿着舒适性。另一方面,一些生物功能处理会导致明显较差的穿着舒适性。特别是,皮肤感官舒适性会受到疏水、光滑(平整)表面的负面影响,这些表面容易附着在汗湿的皮肤上,或者会使纺织品变硬。作为改善热生理或皮肤感官穿着舒适性的指导原则,建议使用合适浓度的亲水处理以及短纤纱而非长丝。