Kligman A M, Sadiq Iqbal, Zhen Yaxian, Crosby Marilyn
S.K.I.N., Incorporated, Conshohocken, PA, USA.
Skin Res Technol. 2006 Nov;12(4):217-22. doi: 10.1111/j.0909-752X.2006.00206.x.
In the USA, Europe and Japan 40 to 50% of women report that they have sensitive skin, defined as abnormal sub-clinical sensory responses to drugs, cosmetics and toiletries in the absence of visible signs of irritation. Itching, burning, stinging and tightness are the commonest complaints, which mainly afflict women. Manufacturers of skin care products have made available a large variety of products which are designed for persons with sensitive skin. Such products are not required by regulatory agencies to submit evidence of safety and efficacy, allowing marketers to make claims that are often exaggerated, irrational and even preposterous. The consumer with self-assessed sensitive skin has no way of judging which products are likely to be most beneficial and least harmful. The marketplace is awash with products for which there is no evidence that the rosy claims have been substantiated by appropriate testing procedures. There is no internationally accepted consensus regarding the criteria which define sensitive skin. Many papers have been published in the last 15 years, mainly originating from industry, which express widely differing views regarding what constitutes sensitive skin. For some, any adverse reaction to a product topically applied to sensitive skin, including breakouts, redness, scaling etc., a panoply of adverse reactions which is virtually meaningless. Others include environmental factors as causative, including cold, dry wind, heat and high humidity, solar radiation, etc., which add to the manifest complexities of the subject.
This is the first paper in a series which provides a comprehensive review of the subject, emphasizing the all too many controversies and confusions arising from the lack of a consensus regarding the identification, classification, epidemiology, prevalence and pathogenesis of sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is a biologic reality and not a psychological, fashionable fantasy on the part of impressionable women.
RESULT/CONCLUSION: There is an urgent necessity to establish rigorous methodologies for estimating the quality and severity of sensitive skin, a heterogeneous condition involving multi-factorial factors. Subsequent papers in this series will describe in detail the experimental approach our group has used to bring some clarity and credibility to this querulous, but important subject.
在美国、欧洲和日本,40%至50%的女性称自己有敏感肌肤,其定义为在无明显刺激迹象的情况下,对药物、化妆品和洗漱用品产生异常的亚临床感觉反应。瘙痒、灼痛、刺痛和紧绷感是最常见的症状,主要困扰女性。护肤品制造商推出了大量专为敏感肌肤人群设计的产品。监管机构并不要求此类产品提交安全性和有效性证据,这使得营销人员能够做出往往夸大、不合理甚至荒谬的宣称。自我评估为敏感肌肤的消费者无法判断哪些产品可能最有益且危害最小。市场上充斥着各种产品,却没有证据表明那些美好的宣称已通过适当的测试程序得到证实。对于定义敏感肌肤的标准,目前尚无国际公认的共识。在过去15年里发表了许多论文,主要来自行业界,它们对敏感肌肤的构成表达了广泛不同的观点。对一些人来说,局部应用于敏感肌肤的产品产生的任何不良反应,包括痘痘、泛红、脱屑等,这一系列不良反应实际上毫无意义。另一些人则将环境因素列为致病因素,包括寒冷、干燥的风、热和高湿度、太阳辐射等,这增加了该主题明显的复杂性。
本文是系列文章中的第一篇,全面综述了该主题,强调了由于在敏感肌肤的识别、分类、流行病学、患病率和发病机制方面缺乏共识而产生的诸多争议和困惑。敏感肌肤是一种生物学现实,而非易受影响的女性的心理或时尚幻想。
结果/结论:迫切需要建立严格的方法来评估敏感肌肤的质量和严重程度,这是一种涉及多因素的异质性状况。本系列后续文章将详细描述我们团队为这个棘手但重要的主题带来一些清晰度和可信度所采用的实验方法。