Department of Dermatology and Allergology, Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich, Germany.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2007 Jun;29(3):181-90. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00378.x.
Lipids are important constituents of the human epidermis. Either free and organized into broad lipid bilayers in the intercorneocytes spaces, or covalently bound to the corneocyte envelope, they play a crucial role in permeability barrier function and are major contributors to cutaneous anti-microbial defense. Free sphingoid bases are a recent addition to this family of active lipids, which emerged from studies of breakdown products from ceramides. Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid occurring naturally in the stratum corneum, both in its free form and as a part of the major fraction of ceramides. The biotechnological production of PS patented by Degussa yields to PS with the correct configuration present in the skin. So, application of a PS containing formulation leads to its integration into the natural lipid structures of the skin. In acne, different pathogenetic factors contribute to the inflammation process, defect in keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity and increased colonization of Propionibacterium acnes. The results of in vitro and in vivo studies confirm the previous reports on strong anti-microbial effectiveness of skin-identical PS produced by Degussa in vitro and in vivo. In addition, PS shows excellent clinical results in the context of skin care in acne, based on both anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. These results demonstrate the potential of PS to enhance or complement existing acne therapies acting as an active cosmetic ingredient.
脂质是人体表皮的重要组成部分。它们要么自由存在并组织在细胞间的宽脂质双层中，要么共价结合到角质细胞包膜上，在渗透屏障功能中起着至关重要的作用，是皮肤抗菌防御的主要贡献者。游离的神经酰胺是这一活性脂质家族的最新成员，它是从神经酰胺的分解产物研究中产生的。植物鞘氨醇 (PS) 是一种天然存在于角质层中的脂质，既以游离形式存在，也作为神经酰胺主要成分的一部分存在。德固赛公司拥有的 PS 的生物技术生产方法可以生产出在皮肤中具有正确构型的 PS。因此，含有 PS 的制剂的应用导致其整合到皮肤的天然脂质结构中。在痤疮中，不同的发病因素导致炎症过程、角质化缺陷、皮脂腺活动增加和痤疮丙酸杆菌的定植增加。体外和体内研究的结果证实了之前关于德固赛公司生产的与皮肤一致的 PS 在体外和体内具有强大抗菌效果的报告。此外，PS 基于抗炎和抗菌活性，在痤疮的皮肤护理方面显示出优异的临床效果。这些结果表明 PS 有潜力增强或补充现有的痤疮治疗方法，作为一种有效的化妆品成分。
