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接触角测量——一种用于筛选体内防晒产品防水性能的可靠辅助方法。

Contact angle measurement - a reliable supportive method for screening water-resistance of ultraviolet-protecting products in vivo.

机构信息

Beiersdorf AG, Research Bioengineering, Unnastrasse 48, D-20245 Hamburg, Germany.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2007 Aug;29(4):283-91. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00380.x.

Abstract

Substantivity of sunscreen formulations is affected by the wash-out rate of ultraviolet-absorber and -reflector compounds in water. Water-resistance of sunscreen formulations is currently determined according to a standardized European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (COLIPA) protocol, encompassing the determination of a minimal erythemal dose before and after a defined immersion step in water. It can be supposed that the higher the wettability of a treated skin area, the higher is the wash-out rate of sunscreen compounds. This present report addresses the validity of determining the wettability of treated skin alone as a measure for the water-resistance of sunscreen products. The report addresses the robustness, accuracy and congruence of a recently developed wettability test, based on the measurement of the contact angle (CA) of a sessile water drop on treated skin areas. Contact angle data of 66 sunscreen formulations are compared with the corresponding results of 81 water-resistance tests, using the sun protection factor (SPF)/immersion/SPF method. Sunscreen products tested by the CA method were applied to the skin of the volar forearm of test subjects at a defined dose and drying-time, using a standardized application and recording device. Contact angles between a sessile water drop and skin were recorded by a Charge-Coupled Device (CCD) camera and subjected to automatic contour analysis. Taking the SPF/immersion/SPF method as gold standard, accuracy parameters of the CA method were determined. By using an appropriate cut-off level of CAs, the CA method has a specificity and positive-predictive value of 100%, and turns out to be a reliable screening method to identify water-resistant formulations. Based on our findings, those formulations that give CAs above 30 degrees may be categorized water-proof without further testing by the COLIPA water-resistance method.

摘要

防晒霜配方的持久性会受到紫外线吸收剂和反射剂在水中的冲洗率的影响。目前,防晒霜配方的耐水性是根据标准化的欧洲化妆品、盥洗用品和香水协会 (COLIPA) 协议来确定的,包括在规定的水浸泡步骤前后确定最小红斑剂量。可以推测,处理过的皮肤区域的润湿性越高,防晒霜化合物的冲洗率就越高。本报告探讨了单独确定处理过的皮肤的润湿性作为防晒霜产品耐水性的衡量标准的有效性。本报告探讨了一种新开发的润湿性测试的稳健性、准确性和一致性,该测试基于在处理过的皮肤区域上测量静止水滴的接触角 (CA)。使用防晒因子 (SPF)/浸泡/SPF 方法,将 66 种防晒霜配方的接触角数据与 81 种耐水性测试的相应结果进行比较。使用标准化的应用和记录设备,在规定的剂量和干燥时间下,将 CA 方法测试的防晒霜产品涂在测试对象的掌侧前臂皮肤上。使用 CCD 相机记录静止水滴和皮肤之间的接触角,并对其进行自动轮廓分析。以 SPF/浸泡/SPF 方法为金标准,确定 CA 方法的准确性参数。通过使用适当的 CA 截止值,CA 方法的特异性和阳性预测值为 100%,是一种可靠的筛选方法,可以识别耐水配方。基于我们的发现,那些 CA 值大于 30 度的配方可能被归类为防水,无需进一步进行 COLIPA 耐水性测试。

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