Coty-Lancaster, International Research & Development Center, 98000 Monaco, Monaco.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2007 Dec;29(6):451-60. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00407.x.
The aim of the study was to develop a simple reproducible and reliable in vitro water resistance (WR) method to assess the sun care products. This paper is the result of a scientific collaboration between seven different international industrial laboratories and testing institutes. The same group has already achieved an in vitro protocol for the sun protection factor (SPF) determination [1]. The in vitro WR of sunscreens was tested by applying the same principle as in vivo, which determines the percentage of retention of sunscreen products by assessing the SPF before and after water immersion. Special care was taken to study the parameters influencing the WR and the possibility to follow the kinetics of sunscreen retention during water immersion. The influence of different water qualities has been tested, and osmosed water (1-3 microS cm(-1)) was chosen for the main ring study. Measurement was carried out after 5, 20 and 40 min of immersion. Histograms of selected products demonstrate the percentage of WR at all measuring times and centres, and the regression coefficient to the in vivo determination was shown and statistical calculations clearly demonstrate the reproducibility of the results between the different evaluation centres. The presented method is a practical, convenient and relevant tool for WR screening of sun care and skin care products. It even has the potential to be the starting point for the replacement of the in vivo method in future.
本研究旨在开发一种简单、可重现且可靠的体外耐水(WR)方法来评估防晒产品。本文是七个不同的国际工业实验室和测试机构之间的科学合作成果。同一团队已经成功制定了体外防晒因子(SPF)测定的方案[1]。通过应用与体内相同的原理来测试防晒霜的体外 WR,通过评估水浸泡前后的 SPF 来确定防晒霜产品的保留率百分比。特别注意研究影响 WR 的参数以及在水浸泡过程中跟踪防晒霜保留的动力学的可能性。已经测试了不同水质的影响,并选择渗滤水(1-3 μS cm(-1)) 进行主要环研究。测量在浸泡 5、20 和 40 分钟后进行。选定产品的直方图显示了所有测量时间和中心的 WR 百分比,并且显示了与体内测定的回归系数,统计计算清楚地证明了不同评估中心之间结果的重现性。所提出的方法是防晒和护肤品 WR 筛选的实用、方便和相关工具。它甚至有可能成为未来替代体内方法的起点。