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Int J Cosmet Sci. 1998 Jun;20(3):159-73. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171748.x.
Skin firmness, elasticity and tone are gradually lost with age. These changes originate in the dermis and correspond to a decrease in the ability of cells, particularly the fibroblasts, to regenerate the molecules which make up the extracellular matrix. Skin ageing is also characterized by a reduction of the epidermal thickness and by a flattening of the basal membrane. The recent development of two 3-dimensional culture systems, in which the cells develop within a porous structure reproducing the extracellular matrix of the human dermis, is a way of reproducing in vivo conditions and demonstrating the biological effects of anti-ageing compounds. The dermal equivalent model used in this study is composed of a dermal matrix made of collagen-chitosan-glycosaminoglycans populated by normal human fibroblasts which synthesized their own extracellular matrix. A skin equivalent model is obtained by the cell culture of normal human keratinocytes onto a dermal equivalent elevated at the air-liquid interface. Such models were used to prove anti-ageing activity of promising compounds. Cosmetic Science has used many protein hydrolysates in order to fight skin ageing, but up to now, these natural peptides were poorly studied, and their efficacy poorly demonstrated. Eight protein hydrolysates were screened in a proliferation study in monolayered cultures giving two selected polypeptides. A soya derived peptide was used for an efficiency study in 3-dimensional models. In the dermal equivalent model, this peptide increased fibroblast proliferation by 40% and led to a stimulation of collagen formation (165%) and elastin (116%) synthesis. The effect of this soya peptide on glycosaminoglycan synthesis was also significant, with increases of 36% for chondroitin-4-sulfate and 68% for hyaluronic acid. These results were confirmed using a skin equivalent model. In this model, the soya peptide increased the thickness of the epidermis.
皮肤的紧致度、弹性和弹性逐渐随着年龄的增长而丧失。这些变化源自真皮，并对应于细胞，特别是成纤维细胞，再生构成细胞外基质的分子的能力下降。皮肤老化的特征还在于表皮厚度的减少和基底膜的扁平化。最近开发的两种 3 维培养系统，其中细胞在多孔结构内发育，该结构再现了人类真皮的细胞外基质，是一种再现体内条件并证明抗老化化合物的生物学效应的方法。本研究中使用的真皮等效模型由胶原蛋白-壳聚糖-糖胺聚糖组成的真皮基质组成，其中填充有合成自己的细胞外基质的正常人类成纤维细胞。通过将正常人类角质形成细胞培养到在气液界面上升高的真皮等效物上来获得皮肤等效模型。使用这些模型证明了有前途的化合物的抗老化活性。化妆品科学已经使用了许多蛋白质水解物来对抗皮肤老化，但到目前为止，这些天然肽研究得很少，其功效也证明得很少。在单层培养物中的增殖研究中筛选了 8 种蛋白质水解物，得出了两种选定的多肽。一种源自大豆的肽用于 3 维模型的效率研究。在真皮等效模型中，该肽使成纤维细胞增殖增加了 40%，并导致胶原蛋白形成（165%）和弹性蛋白（116%）合成的刺激。该大豆肽对糖胺聚糖合成的影响也很显著，硫酸软骨素 4-硫酸盐增加了 36%，透明质酸增加了 68%。在皮肤等效模型中证实了这些结果。在该模型中，大豆肽增加了表皮的厚度。
