Aguirre-Cruz Gabriel, León-López Arely, Cruz-Gómez Verónica, Jiménez-Alvarado Rubén, Aguirre-Álvarez Gabriel
Uni-Collagen S.A. de C.V., Arnulfo González No. 203, El Paraíso, C.P. 43684 Tulancingo, Hidalgo, Mexico.
Instituto de Ciencias Agropecuarias, Universidad Autónoma del Estado de Hidalgo, Av. Universidad Km. 1, C.P. 43600 Tulancingo, Hidalgo, Mexico.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2020 Feb 22;9(2):181. doi: 10.3390/antiox9020181.
Antioxidants are molecules that delay or inhibit the oxidation of other molecules. Its use significantly increased in recent years in the diet of people. Natural antioxidants are replacing the use of synthetic antioxidant ingredients due to their safety, nutritional, and therapeutic values. Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) is a popular ingredient considered to be an antioxidant. This low molecular weight protein has been widely utilized due to its excellent biocompatibility, easy biodegradability, and weak antigenicity. It is a safe cosmetic biomaterial with good moisturizing properties on the skin. The antioxidant properties of HC are conditioned to the size of the molecule: the lower the molecular weight of peptides, the greater the ability to donate an electron or hydrogen to stabilize radicals. The antioxidant capacity of HC is mostly due to the presence of hydrophobic amino acids in the peptide. The exact mechanism of peptides acting as antioxidants is not clearly known but some aromatic amino acids and histidine are reported to play an important role in the antioxidant activity. Oral ingestion of HC increases the levels of collagen-derived peptides in the blood torrent and improves the skin properties such as elasticity, skin moisture, and transepidermal water loss. Additionally, daily intakes of HC protect the skin against UV melasma, enhances the fibroblast production and extracellular matrix of the skin. HC has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient for topical formulations with good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin. It reduces the effects of skin aging (dryness, laxity, and wrinkles). The use of HC as a principal ingredient in safe formulations for skin protection was reviewed and compared when it is used by topical and/or oral administration.
抗氧化剂是能够延缓或抑制其他分子氧化的分子。近年来,其在人们饮食中的使用显著增加。由于天然抗氧化剂具有安全性、营养性和治疗价值,它们正在取代合成抗氧化剂成分的使用。水解胶原蛋白(HC)是一种被认为具有抗氧化作用的流行成分。这种低分子量蛋白质因其优异的生物相容性、易于生物降解性和弱抗原性而被广泛应用。它是一种对皮肤具有良好保湿性能的安全化妆品生物材料。HC的抗氧化性能取决于分子大小:肽的分子量越低,向自由基提供电子或氢以使其稳定的能力就越强。HC的抗氧化能力主要归因于肽中存在疏水氨基酸。肽作为抗氧化剂的确切作用机制尚不清楚,但据报道一些芳香族氨基酸和组氨酸在抗氧化活性中起重要作用。口服HC可提高血液中胶原蛋白衍生肽的水平,并改善皮肤特性,如弹性、皮肤水分和经表皮水分流失。此外,每日摄入HC可保护皮肤免受紫外线黄褐斑的影响,增强皮肤成纤维细胞的产生和细胞外基质。HC已被确定为一种安全的化妆品成分,用于皮肤角质层具有良好保湿性能的局部制剂中。它可减少皮肤老化(干燥、松弛和皱纹)的影响。当通过局部和/或口服给药使用HC时,对其作为皮肤保护安全制剂的主要成分的使用进行了综述和比较。