Gaspar L R, Camargo F B, Gianeti M D, Maia Campos P M B G
Universidade de São Paulo, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto, Av. do Café s/n, Bairro Monte Alegre, Ribeirão Preto, Sao Paulo 14 040-903, Brazil.
Food Chem Toxicol. 2008 Nov;46(11):3493-500. doi: 10.1016/j.fct.2008.08.028. Epub 2008 Sep 2.
Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract (SCE) is used in cosmetics since it can act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions. This study investigated dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing SCE and/or vitamins A, C and E. The formulation studied was supplemented or not (F1: vehicle) with vitamins A, C and E esters (F2) or with SCE (F3) or with the combination of vitamins and SCE (F4). Formulations were patch tested on back skin of volunteers. For efficacy studies, formulations were applied on volunteers and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture (SM), skin microrelief (SMR) and free radicals protection were analysed after 3h, 15 and 30 days of application. Volunteers were also asked about efficacy perception. It was observed that F4 provoked a slight erythema in one volunteer. All formulations enhanced forearm SM. Only F3 and F4 presented long term effects on SMR and showed higher texture values; F3 had the highest brightness values. Our results suggest that vitamins and SCE showed effects in SM and SMR. Only formulations containing SC had long term effects in the improvement of SMR. Thus, these kinds of evaluations are very important in cosmetics development to evaluate the best risk and benefit correlation.
酿酒酵母提取物(SCE)因其能应对氧化应激并改善皮肤状况而被用于化妆品中。本研究调查了含有SCE和/或维生素A、C和E的化妆品配方的皮肤学效应。所研究的配方分别补充了(F2)维生素A、C和E酯,或补充了SCE(F3),或同时补充了维生素和SCE(F4),也有未补充的(F1:赋形剂)。对志愿者背部皮肤进行贴斑试验。为了进行功效研究,将配方涂抹于志愿者身上,并在涂抹3小时、15天和30天后分析经表皮水分流失(TEWL)、皮肤水分(SM)、皮肤微观纹理(SMR)和自由基防护情况。还询问了志愿者对功效的感知。观察到F4在一名志愿者身上引发了轻微红斑。所有配方均能提高前臂皮肤水分。只有F3和F4对皮肤微观纹理有长期影响,并显示出更高的质地值;F3的亮度值最高。我们的结果表明,维生素和SCE对皮肤水分和皮肤微观纹理有影响。只有含有SCE的配方对改善皮肤微观纹理有长期效果。因此,这类评估在化妆品开发中对于评估最佳风险效益相关性非常重要。