Laboratoire de Recherche et Développement de Pharmacie Galénique Industrielle, EA 4169, Fonctions normales et pathologiques de la barrière cutanée, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université Lyon 1, 8 avenue Rockefeller, Lyon Cedex 08, France.
Arch Dermatol Res. 2010 Aug;302(6):435-41. doi: 10.1007/s00403-009-1021-z. Epub 2009 Dec 31.
Glycerol, widely used as humectant, is known to protect against irritants and to accelerate recovery of irritated skin. However, most studies were done with topical formulations (i.e. emulsions) containing glycerol in relatively high amounts, preventing drawing conclusions from direct effects. In this study, acute chemical irritations were performed on the forearm with application of a 10% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) aqueous solution under occlusion for 3 h. Then, glycerol aqueous solutions from 1 to 10% were applied under occlusion for 3 h. After elimination of moist excess consecutive to occlusive condition, in ambient air for 15 and 30 min, skin barrier function was investigated by dual measurement of skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Treatments with SLS solution under occlusion significantly increased TEWL and decreased skin hydration as assessed by capacitance measurements. The SLS irritant property was raised by the occlusion and the water barrier function as well as water content appeared impaired. Recovery with glycerol at low doses was remarkable through a mechanism that implies its hygroscopic properties and which is saturable. This precocious effect acts through skin rehydration by enhancing water-holding capacity of stratum corneum that would facilitate the late physiological repair of impaired skin barrier. Thus, glycerol appears to substitute for natural moisturizing factors that have been washed out by the detergent action of SLS, enhancing skin hydration but without restoring skin barrier function as depicted by TEWL values that remained high. Thus, irritant contact dermatitis treated with glycerol application compensate for skin dehydration, favouring physiological process to restore water barrier function of the impaired skin. Empirical use of glycerol added topical formulations onto detergent altered skin was substantiated in the present physicochemical approach.
甘油作为保湿剂被广泛应用,其可保护皮肤免受刺激物的伤害,并加速受损皮肤的恢复。然而,大多数研究都是使用含有相对较高量甘油的局部制剂(即乳液)进行的,这使得我们无法从直接作用中得出结论。在这项研究中,在前臂上用 10%的十二烷基硫酸钠(SLS)水溶液进行急性化学刺激,然后用封闭的方法应用 1%到 10%的甘油水溶液 3 小时。在封闭条件下去除多余的水分后,在环境空气中暴露 15 和 30 分钟,通过同时测量皮肤水合和经皮水分流失(TEWL)来研究皮肤屏障功能。用封闭的 SLS 溶液处理会显著增加 TEWL,并通过电容测量法降低皮肤水合作用,这表明皮肤水屏障功能和含水量受到损害。低剂量甘油的恢复作用非常显著,其机制涉及甘油的吸湿性,且该作用具有饱和性。这种早期作用通过增强角质层的保水能力来实现皮肤的再水合作用,这有利于受损皮肤屏障的后期生理修复。因此,甘油似乎可以替代被 SLS 的去污作用所洗去的天然保湿因子,增强皮肤的水合作用,但不会像 TEWL 值所显示的那样恢复皮肤屏障功能,因为 TEWL 值仍然很高。因此,用甘油处理刺激性接触性皮炎可以补偿皮肤脱水,促进恢复受损皮肤水屏障功能的生理过程。本物理化学方法证实了在经去污剂处理的皮肤上添加甘油制剂的经验性应用。