Korting H C, Borelli C, Schöllmann C
Klinik und Poliklinik für Dermatologie und Allergologie, Klinikum der Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität München, Frauenlobstr. 9-11, 80337 München.
Hautarzt. 2010 Feb;61(2):126-31. doi: 10.1007/s00105-009-1832-z.
Appropriate cosmetics for skin cleansing are capable of contributing to a reduction of especially inflammatory lesions in acne-prone patients and to support pharmacological intervention in patients with manifest acne. Cleansing of acne-prone skin should employ acidified synthetic cleansers with a pH of 5.5 rather than soap. Furthermore, the ingredients of certain skin care products, i.e. nicotinamide, lactic acid, triethyl acetate/ethyllineolate, and prebiotic plant extracts, affect different mechanisms of acne pathogenesis and therefore may contribute to a decrease in acne lesions. At least some of these ingredients underscore the concept of evidence-based cosmetics. In contrast, the problem of acne lesions caused by comedogenic ingredients in cosmetics today is negligible.
适合用于皮肤清洁的化妆品能够有助于减少易患痤疮患者尤其是炎性皮损,并支持对已患明显痤疮患者的药物干预。易患痤疮皮肤的清洁应使用pH值为5.5的酸化合成清洁剂而非肥皂。此外,某些护肤品的成分,即烟酰胺、乳酸、三乙酸乙酯/亚油酸乙酯和益生元植物提取物,会影响痤疮发病机制的不同环节,因此可能有助于减少痤疮皮损。这些成分中至少有一些凸显了循证化妆品的理念。相比之下,如今化妆品中致粉刺成分导致痤疮皮损的问题微不足道。