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[抗衰老面霜。真正有帮助的是什么?]

[Anti-aging creams. What really helps?].

作者信息

Kerscher M, Buntrock H

机构信息

Department Chemie, Studiengang Kosmetikwissenschaft, Universität Hamburg.

出版信息

Hautarzt. 2011 Aug;62(8):607-13. doi: 10.1007/s00105-011-2137-6.

DOI:10.1007/s00105-011-2137-6
PMID:21755353
Abstract

As youth and perception of beauty are considered to be of great importance, an increasing number of new cosmeceuticals have been developed in recent years. This article will describe new, evidence-based ingredients against skin-aging; in particular antioxidants (e.g. vitamin C, niacinamide, different polyphenols and flavonoids) and cell regulators (e.g. retinol, different peptides and growth factors. Important parameters for the quality of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are evidence-based in-vivo and in-vitro efficacy as well as scientifically approved wanted and unwanted effects.

摘要

由于年轻和对美的认知被认为非常重要,近年来越来越多的新型药妆品被研发出来。本文将介绍基于证据的抗皮肤衰老新成分;特别是抗氧化剂(如维生素C、烟酰胺、不同的多酚和类黄酮)和细胞调节剂(如视黄醇、不同的肽和生长因子)。化妆品和药妆品质量的重要参数是基于证据的体内和体外功效以及科学认可的预期和非预期效果。

相似文献

1
[Anti-aging creams. What really helps?].[抗衰老面霜。真正有帮助的是什么?]
Hautarzt. 2011 Aug;62(8):607-13. doi: 10.1007/s00105-011-2137-6.
2
Update on cosmeceuticals.化妆品更新。
J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2011 Apr;9(4):314-26; quiz 327. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2010.07600.x. Epub 2011 Feb 3.
3
Next generation cosmeceuticals: the latest in peptides, growth factors, cytokines, and stem cells.下一代化妆品:最新的肽、生长因子、细胞因子和干细胞。
Dermatol Clin. 2014 Jan;32(1):13-21. doi: 10.1016/j.det.2013.09.003.
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Cosmeceuticals: the new medicine of beauty.药妆品:美容新药物。
Mo Med. 2011 Jan-Feb;108(1):60-3.
5
Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics.化妆品中的抗氧化剂和维生素。
Clin Dermatol. 2001 Jul-Aug;19(4):467-73. doi: 10.1016/s0738-081x(01)00188-2.
6
A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen.一项关于美容烟酰胺/肽/视黄醇丙酸酯产品方案与处方 0.02%维 A 酸产品方案减少皱纹功效的随机、对照比较研究。
Br J Dermatol. 2010 Mar;162(3):647-54. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09436.x.
7
The role of cosmeceuticals in antiaging therapy.药妆品在抗衰老治疗中的作用。
Skin Therapy Lett. 2008 Nov-Dec;13(8):5-9.
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An Approach to Cosmeceuticals.一种针对药妆品的方法。
J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Apr;15(4):452-6.
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Cosmeceuticals for men.男性美容护肤产品。
Cutis. 2013 Jul;Suppl:6-12.
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Cosmetics, categories, and the future.化妆品、类别与未来。
Dermatol Ther. 2012 May-Jun;25(3):223-8. doi: 10.1111/j.1529-8019.2012.01498.x.

引用本文的文献

1
Skin anti-aging strategies.皮肤抗老化策略。
Dermatoendocrinol. 2012 Jul 1;4(3):308-19. doi: 10.4161/derm.22804.

本文引用的文献

1
Update on cosmeceuticals.化妆品更新。
J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2011 Apr;9(4):314-26; quiz 327. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2010.07600.x. Epub 2011 Feb 3.
2
Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms.天然多酚对皮肤的光保护作用:抗炎、抗氧化和 DNA 修复机制。
Arch Dermatol Res. 2010 Mar;302(2):71-83. doi: 10.1007/s00403-009-1001-3. Epub 2009 Nov 7.
3
[Actives. A central component of modern light protection].
Hautarzt. 2009 Apr;60(4):294-300. doi: 10.1007/s00105-008-1624-x.
4
A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation.一种含有维生素C和E并由阿魏酸稳定的外用抗氧化剂溶液可为人类皮肤提供保护,使其免受紫外线照射造成的损伤。
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008 Sep;59(3):418-25. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2008.05.004. Epub 2008 Jul 7.
5
Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin.抗坏血酸和积雪草苷局部治疗对光老化人体皮肤长期影响的临床、生物特征和结构评估
Exp Dermatol. 2008 Nov;17(11):946-52. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00732.x. Epub 2008 May 21.
6
A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity.一种具有抗皱活性的合成六肽(Argireline)。
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002 Oct;24(5):303-10. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x.
7
Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin.局部用烟酰胺可减少衰老面部皮肤的发黄、皱纹、红斑和色素斑。
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004 Oct;26(5):231-8. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00228.x.
8
Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine: a novel agent for the repair of photoaged skin.水杨酰化植物鞘氨醇:一种用于修复光老化皮肤的新型制剂。
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2007 Aug;29(4):319-29. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00394.x.
9
Cosmeceutical peptides.药妆肽
Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct;20(5):343-9. doi: 10.1111/j.1529-8019.2007.00148.x.
10
What is anti-aging?什么是抗衰老?
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Jun;6(2):73-4. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00309.x.