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适应攀岩测试:一种室内攀岩的野外测试。

Fit-climbing test: a field test for indoor rock climbing.

机构信息

Department of Sport, School of Physical Education and Sport, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil.

出版信息

J Strength Cond Res. 2012 Jun;26(6):1558-63. doi: 10.1519/JSC.0b013e318231ab37.

Abstract

The aim of this study was to develop an indoor rock-climbing test on an artificial wall (Fit-climbing test). Thirteen climbers (elite group [EG] = 6; recreational group [RG] = 7) performed the following tests: (a) familiarization in the Fit-climbing test, (b) the Fit-climbing test, and (c) a retest to evaluate the Fit-climbing test's reliability. Gas exchange, blood lactate concentration, handgrip strength, and heart rate were measured during the test. Oxygen uptake during the Fit-climbing test was not different between groups (EG = 8.4 ± 1.1 L; RG = 7.9 ± 1.5 L, p > 0.05). The EG performance (120 ± 7 movements) was statistically higher than the RG climbers' performance (78 ± 13 movements) during the Fit-climbing test. Consequently, the oxygen cost per movement during the Fit-climbing test of the EG was significantly lower than that of the RG (p < 0.05). Handgrip strength was higher in the EG when compared with that in the RG in both pre-Fit- and post-Fit-climbing test (p < 0.05). There were no significant differences in any other variables analyzed during the Fit-climbing test (p > 0.05). Furthermore, the performance in the Fit-climbing test presented high reliability (intraclass correlation coefficient = 0.97). Therefore, the performance during the Fit-climbing test may be an alternative to evaluate rock climbers because of its specificity and relation to oxygen cost per movement during climbing.

摘要

本研究旨在开发一种在人工墙上进行的室内攀岩测试(Fit-climbing 测试)。13 名攀岩者(精英组 [EG] = 6;娱乐组 [RG] = 7)进行了以下测试:(a)在 Fit-climbing 测试中熟悉,(b)进行 Fit-climbing 测试,(c)进行重测以评估 Fit-climbing 测试的可靠性。在测试过程中测量了气体交换、血液乳酸浓度、握力和心率。Fit-climbing 测试期间,两组之间的耗氧量没有差异(EG = 8.4 ± 1.1 L;RG = 7.9 ± 1.5 L,p > 0.05)。EG 组的表现(120 ± 7 次动作)在 Fit-climbing 测试中明显高于 RG 攀岩者的表现(78 ± 13 次动作)。因此,EG 在 Fit-climbing 测试中的每一次动作的氧气消耗成本明显低于 RG(p < 0.05)。与 RG 相比,EG 在 Fit-climbing 测试前后的握力都更高(p < 0.05)。Fit-climbing 测试期间的任何其他变量分析均无显著差异(p > 0.05)。此外,Fit-climbing 测试中的表现具有很高的可靠性(组内相关系数 = 0.97)。因此,Fit-climbing 测试的表现可能是评估攀岩者的一种替代方法,因为它具有特异性,并且与攀爬过程中的每一次动作的氧气消耗成本有关。

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