School of Sciences and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand.
Scand J Med Sci Sports. 2013 Oct;23(5):645-50. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0838.2011.01432.x. Epub 2012 Feb 2.
Research suggests that lead climbing is both physiologically and psychologically more stressful than top rope climbing for intermediate performers. This observation may not be true for advanced climbers, who train regularly on lead routes and are accustomed to leader falls. The aim of this study was to compare the psychophysiological stresses of lead and top rope on-sight ascents in advanced rock climbers. Twenty-one climbers (18 men and three women) ascended routes near or at the best of their ability (22 Ewbank). Psychological stress was measured preclimb using the Revised Comparative State Anxiety Inventory (CSAI-2R). Plasma cortisol was sampled at six intervals. The volume of oxygen (VO2 ) and heart rate (Hr) were measured throughout the climbs. No significant differences were found in self-confidence, somatic, or cognitive anxiety between the conditions lead and top rope. No significant differences in plasma cortisol concentration were found between any time points. No significant relationships were found between cortisol and any CSAI-2R measures. No significant differences were found between conditions for VO2 or blood lactate concentration. During the lead climb, Hr was significantly elevated during the last part of the route. Findings suggest that advanced rock climbers do not find lead climbing to be more stressful than top rope climbing during an on-sight ascent.
研究表明，对于中级攀岩者来说，自由攀登在生理和心理上比顶绳攀登更具压力。但对于高级攀岩者来说，这种说法可能并不成立，因为他们经常在有顶绳的路线上训练，并且习惯了领攀者的坠落。本研究旨在比较高级攀岩者在自由攀登和顶绳攀登中生理和心理压力的差异。21 名攀岩者（18 名男性和 3 名女性）攀爬了接近或达到他们最佳能力的路线（22Ewbank）。在攀爬前使用修订后的比较状态焦虑量表（CSAI-2R）测量心理压力。在六个时间点采集血浆皮质醇样本。整个攀爬过程中测量了耗氧量（VO2）和心率（Hr）。在自由攀登和顶绳攀登两种条件下，自我信心、躯体和认知焦虑没有显著差异。在任何时间点，血浆皮质醇浓度均无显著差异。皮质醇与任何 CSAI-2R 测量值之间均无显著关系。VO2 或血乳酸浓度在两种条件下均无显著差异。在自由攀登过程中，心率在最后一段路线上显著升高。研究结果表明，在自由攀登和顶绳攀登的首次尝试中，高级攀岩者并未发现自由攀登比顶绳攀登更具压力。
