Grant S, Shields C, Fitzpatrick V, Loh W Ming, Whitaker A, Watt I, Kay J W
lnstitute of Biomedical and Life Sciences, University of Glasgow, Glasgow, UK.
J Sports Sci. 2003 Aug;21(8):621-30. doi: 10.1080/0264041031000101953.
The aim of this study was to compare the climbing-specific finger endurance of climbers, rowers and aerobically leg trained athletes. Twenty-seven males aged 21.2 +/- 2.2 years (mean +/- s) volunteered for the study. The participants were intermediate rock climbers (n = 9), rowers (n = 9) and leg trained athletes (n = 9). Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) was determined on climbing-specific finger apparatus. Endurance isometric exercise was performed at 40% MVC in three tests performed in a random order: (1) sustained exercise; (2) 6 s exercise, 4 s rest; and (3) 18 s exercise, 12 s rest. Pre- and post-exercise blood pressure and blood lactate concentration, together with post-exercise pain perception, were measured. The climbers had a significantly greater MVC (383 +/- 35.6 N) than the rowers (321 +/- 49.5 N, P = 0.007) and aerobically leg trained athletes (288 +/- 60.6 N, P = 0.001). There were no significant differences between the groups in terms of endurance times for any of the tests. In the test with 18 s exercise and 12 s rest, the climbers showed a significantly higher increase in blood lactate concentration, on average, than the rowers by 0.01-0.89 mmol x l(-1) (P = 0.006); there were no significant differences, on average, in the comparisons of climbers and the leg trained athletes and rowers and the leg trained athletes. There were no significant differences in the average changes in blood pressure from rest to post-exercise between any of the groups. Although the climbers had greater MVC on average than the other two groups, there were no significant differences in average endurance times amongthe groups. These findings suggest that training for rock climbing and participation in rock climbing may result in some specific adaptations. However, we acknowledge that this study is descriptive and there is the possibility that differences between groups could be attributed to self-selection.
本研究的目的是比较攀岩者、赛艇运动员和进行有氧腿部训练的运动员的特定于攀岩的手指耐力。27名年龄在21.2±2.2岁（平均值±标准差）的男性自愿参与本研究。参与者包括中级攀岩者（n = 9）、赛艇运动员（n = 9）和进行腿部训练的运动员（n = 9）。在特定于攀岩的手指器械上测定最大自主收缩（MVC）。以随机顺序进行三项测试，在40%MVC下进行耐力等长运动：（1）持续运动；（2）6秒运动，4秒休息；（3）18秒运动，12秒休息。测量运动前和运动后的血压、血乳酸浓度以及运动后的疼痛感知。攀岩者的MVC（383±35.6 N）显著高于赛艇运动员（321±49.5 N，P = 0.007）和进行有氧腿部训练的运动员（288±60.6 N，P = 0.001）。在任何一项测试的耐力时间方面，各组之间均无显著差异。在18秒运动和12秒休息的测试中，攀岩者的血乳酸浓度平均升高幅度显著高于赛艇运动员，相差0.01 - 0.89 mmol·L⁻¹（P = 0.006）；在攀岩者与进行腿部训练的运动员以及赛艇运动员与进行腿部训练的运动员的比较中，平均而言无显著差异。各组从休息到运动后血压的平均变化无显著差异。尽管攀岩者的平均MVC高于其他两组，但各组的平均耐力时间无显著差异。这些发现表明，攀岩训练和参与攀岩可能会导致一些特定的适应性变化。然而，我们承认本研究具有描述性，并且各组之间的差异有可能归因于自我选择。
