Centro de Química da Madeira-CCEEE, Campus Universitário da Penteada, Universidade da Madeira, 9000-390 Madeira, Portugal.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Dec;34(6):546-50. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00745.x. Epub 2012 Aug 24.
Laurus novocanariensis is an endemic plant from the Madeira Island forest that derives a fatty oil, with a strong spicy odour, from its berries that has been used for centuries in traditional medicine to treat skin ailments. This work aimed to investigate the effect of the application of both the oil and its essential oil on normal skin, to assess their safety and potential benefits. Diffusion studies with Franz cells using human epidermal membranes were conducted. The steady-state fluxes of two model molecules through untreated skin were compared with those obtained after a 2-h pre-treatment with either the oil or the essential oil. Additionally, eleven volunteers participated in the in vivo study that was conducted on the forearm and involved daily application of the oil for 5 days. Measurements were performed every day in the treated site with bioengineering methods that measure erythema, irritation and loss of barrier function. Slightly higher steady-state fluxes were observed for both the lipophilic and the hydrophilic molecule when the epidermal membranes were pre-treated. Nevertheless, such differences had no statistical significance, which seems to confirm that neither the oil nor the essential oil impaired the epidermal barrier. Results collected with the Chromameter, the Laser Doppler Flowmeter and the visual scoring are in agreement with those established in the in vitro study. They indicate that the repeated application of the oil did not cause erythema, because the results observed in the first day of the study were maintained throughout the week. Application of the oil did not affect the skin barrier function, because the transepidermal water loss remained constant throughout the study. The stratum corneum hydration was slightly reduced on days 4 and 5. This work shows that both the oil and the essential oil were well tolerated by the skin and did not cause significant barrier impairment or irritation.
拉鲁斯 novocanariensis 是马德拉岛森林的特有植物，从其浆果中提取出一种油性脂肪油，具有强烈的辛辣气味，几个世纪以来，它一直被传统医学用于治疗皮肤疾病。本研究旨在研究应用油及其精油对正常皮肤的影响，以评估其安全性和潜在益处。使用 Franz 细胞进行了扩散研究，用人表皮膜进行。比较了未经处理的皮肤中两种模型分子的稳态通量与用油或精油预处理 2 小时后获得的通量。此外，11 名志愿者参与了在前臂上进行的体内研究，每天应用油 5 天。使用生物工程方法在处理部位进行测量，该方法测量红斑、刺激和屏障功能丧失。当表皮膜预处理时，亲脂性和亲水性分子的稳态通量均略有增加。然而，这些差异没有统计学意义，这似乎证实了油和精油都没有损害表皮屏障。用分光光度计、激光多普勒流量计和视觉评分收集的结果与体外研究中建立的结果一致。它们表明，油的重复应用不会引起红斑，因为研究第一天观察到的结果在整个星期内保持不变。油的应用不会影响皮肤屏障功能，因为整个研究期间经表皮水分损失保持不变。角质层水分在第 4 天和第 5 天略有减少。这项工作表明，油和精油都被皮肤很好地耐受，不会引起明显的屏障损伤或刺激。
