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基于酿酒葡萄皮渣酚类物质的防晒体系的安全性及光防护效果

Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace ( L.) Phenolics from Winemaking.

作者信息

Hübner Alexandra A, Sarruf Fernanda D, Oliveira Camila A, Neto Alberto V, Fischer Dominique C H, Kato Edna T M, Lourenço Felipe R, Baby André Rolim, Bacchi Elfriede M

机构信息

School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, Brazil.

IPclin-Institute of Integrated Clinical Research, Jundiai 13200-000, Brazil.

出版信息

Pharmaceutics. 2020 Nov 27;12(12):1148. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics12121148.

Abstract

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% / + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

摘要

在葡萄酒酿造过程中,会产生大量富含多酚类物质的葡萄皮渣,由于酚类物质对皮肤紫外线(UV)防护有益,所以葡萄皮渣对人体健康极为有利。在本研究中,我们评估了一种含有来自[具体葡萄品种]葡萄皮渣提取物作为生物活性成分的防晒体系的安全性和临床疗效。通过渗滤法回收废弃物中的酚类物质。采用析因设计制备了九种乳液,并对其中两种进行了临床评估:配方E,仅含有紫外线过滤剂(丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯和二甲基对氨基苯甲酸乙基己酯);配方F,含有10.0%的提取物以及紫外线过滤剂。通过DPPH法测定抗氧化活性,并通过防晒系数(SPF)测量(Labsphere UV - 2000S)确定体外疗效。进行临床测试以确定安全性(人体重复刺激斑贴试验)并确认疗效(对参与者的光保护效果)。结果表明,防晒体系与提取物在紫外线B防护和抗氧化活性方面具有协同效应。两种样品均被认为是安全的。与不含提取物的样品相比,配方F在保护皮肤免受紫外线B辐射方面的效率高20.59%,诱导红斑所需时间大约多21%。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/2794/7761385/a9584576cf78/pharmaceutics-12-01148-g001.jpg

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