Moreira Patrícia, Sousa Fábio Jesus, Matos Patrícia, Brites Gonçalo Sousa, Gonçalves Maria José, Cavaleiro Carlos, Figueirinha Artur, Salgueiro Lígia, Batista Maria Teresa, Branco Pedro Costa, Cruz Maria Teresa, Pereira Cláudia Fragão
CNC-Center for Neuroscience and Cell Biology, CIBB-Center for Innovative Biomedicine and Biotechnology, University of Coimbra, 3004-504 Coimbra, Portugal.
Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal.
Pharmaceutics. 2022 Mar 3;14(3):561. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics14030561.
is planted extensively for pulp, paper and wood production. Although bioactive compounds obtained from its biomass are used as cosmetics ingredients, the skin effects were not yet fully explored. In order to fill this gap, this work aimed to study the protective effect against skin damage provided by the essential oil (EO) obtained from the hydrodistillation of leaves, and by an extract obtained from the hydrodistillation residual water (HRW). The major compound identified in the EO was 1,8-Cineole, and the phenolic acids in the HRW included gallic acid as the main phenolic constituent. Moreover, non-toxic EO and HRW concentrations were shown to have anti-aging skin effects in vitro, decreasing age-related senescence markers, namely β-galactosidase and matrix metalloproteinases activation, as well as collagen type 1 upregulation. In addition, EO and HRW were found to exhibit depigmenting effects by inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin production, along with potent anti-inflammatory properties. Furthermore, the absence of skin irritation and sensitization in cells exposed to EO and HRW revealed the safety of both extracts for topical use. Taken together, these results highlight the beneficial effects of extracts obtained from biomass for skin aesthetic and health purposes, which should be explored deeply for the prediction of future pharmaceutical and dermocosmetics industrial applications.
它被广泛种植用于纸浆、纸张和木材生产。尽管从其生物质中获得的生物活性化合物被用作化妆品成分,但其对皮肤的影响尚未得到充分探索。为了填补这一空白,本研究旨在探讨从树叶水蒸馏得到的精油(EO)以及从水蒸馏残留水(HRW)中获得的提取物对皮肤损伤的保护作用。在EO中鉴定出的主要化合物是1,8-桉叶素,HRW中的酚酸以没食子酸为主要酚类成分。此外,无毒浓度的EO和HRW在体外显示出抗皮肤衰老作用,可降低与年龄相关的衰老标志物,即β-半乳糖苷酶和基质金属蛋白酶的激活,以及上调I型胶原蛋白。此外,EO和HRW被发现通过抑制酪氨酸酶和黑色素生成以及具有强大的抗炎特性而表现出美白作用。此外,暴露于EO和HRW的细胞中未出现皮肤刺激和致敏现象,表明这两种提取物用于局部应用是安全的。综上所述,这些结果突出了从生物质中获得的提取物对皮肤美容和健康的有益作用,应深入探索以预测未来在制药和皮肤化妆品工业中的应用。