Kowalska M, Mendrycka M, Zbikowska A, Stawarz S
Faculty of Material Science, Technology and Design, Kazimierz Pulaski University of Technology and Humanities, Chrobrego Street 27, 26-600, Radom, Poland.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Feb;37(1):82-91. doi: 10.1111/ics.12173. Epub 2014 Nov 19.
Formation of emulsion systems based on interesterified fats was the objective of the study. Enzymatic interesterification was carried out between enzymatic mutton tallow and walnut oil in the proportions 2 : 3 (w/w) to produce fats not available in nature. At the beginning of the interesterification process, the balance between the interesterification and fat hydrolysis was intentionally disturbed by adding more water to the catalyst (Lipozyme IR MR) of the reaction to produce more of the polar fraction monoacylglycerols [MAGs] and diacylglycerols [DAGs]. To obtain a greater quantity of MAGs and DAGs in the reaction environment via hydrolysis, water was added (11, 13, 14, 16 w-%) to the enzymatic preparation. The obtained fats were used to form emulsions.
The emulsions were evaluated with respect to sensory and skin moisturizing properties by 83 respondents. Determination of emulsion stability using temperature and centrifugal tests was carried out. Morphology and the type of emulsions were determined.
The respondents described the skin to which the emulsions in testing were applied as smooth, pleasant to touch and adequately moisturized.
The work has demonstrated that interesterification of a mutton tallow and walnut oil blend resulted in new fats with very interesting characteristics of triacylglycerols that are not present in the environment. The results of the present work indicate the possibility of application of fats with the largest quantity of MAGs and DAGs as a fat base of emulsions in the cosmetic industries. The hypothesis assumed in this work of producing additional quantities of MAGs and DAGs (in the process of enzymatic interesterification) responsible for the stability of the system was confirmed. It should be pointed out that the emulsions based on interesterified fats exhibited a greater level of moisturization of the skin than the emulsions containing non-interesterified fat. Also, in the respondents' opinion, the emulsion containing fat, which was modified during enzymatic interesterification when 13% of water was added to the enzymatic preparation, exhibited the best sensory profile.
本研究的目的是基于酯交换脂肪形成乳液体系。将酶法羊脂与核桃油按2∶3（w/w）的比例进行酶促酯交换反应，以生产自然界中不存在的脂肪。在酯交换反应开始时，通过向反应催化剂（Lipozyme IR MR）中加入更多的水来有意扰乱酯交换与脂肪水解之间的平衡，以产生更多的极性部分单酰甘油[MAGs]和二酰甘油[DAGs]。为了通过水解在反应环境中获得更多量的MAGs和DAGs，向酶制剂中加入水（11、13、14、16 w-%）。所得脂肪用于形成乳液。
83名受访者对乳液的感官和皮肤保湿性能进行了评估。通过温度和离心试验测定乳液稳定性。确定了乳液的形态和类型。
受访者将涂抹测试乳液的皮肤描述为光滑、触感宜人且保湿充分。
该研究表明，羊脂与核桃油混合物的酯交换反应产生了具有非常有趣的甘油三酯特性的新脂肪，这些特性在环境中并不存在。本研究结果表明，含有最大量MAGs和DAGs的脂肪有可能作为化妆品行业乳液的脂肪基质。本研究中关于在酶促酯交换过程中产生更多负责体系稳定性的MAGs和DAGs的假设得到了证实。应该指出的是,基于酯交换脂肪的乳液比含有未酯交换脂肪的乳液表现出更高的皮肤保湿水平。此外，在受访者看来，当向酶制剂中加入13%的水时，在酶促酯交换过程中经过改性的含脂肪乳液表现出最佳的感官特性。
