Chang N I, Yoo M Y, Lee S H
Korea Food Research Institute, Seongnam, Republic of Korea.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Apr;37(2):175-80. doi: 10.1111/ics.12171. Epub 2015 Feb 5.
Commercial sunscreens consist of various compounds ranging from inorganic mineral pigments to organic chemical absorbents to achieve the required degree of protection against sunlight. However, the UV radiation screening ingredients have side effects. In this study, therefore, to ensure compliance with the maximum permissible chemical concentrations in sunscreen cosmetic products, a simultaneous and improved determination method for sunscreen chemicals was assessed.
Waters 2690 separations module HPLC system equipped with a Waters 486 tunable absorbance detector (UV-visible detector) has been employed and optimized to detect 14 compounds. For the separation, a Waters C18 column (5 μm, 4.6 mm i.d. 150 mm) and 1% of 0.1 M phosphoric acid in ethanol (solvent A) and in distilled water (solvent B) as mobile phases were used.
The correlation coefficients of 14 standard mixture solutions exceeded 0.9993 in the range 2.5-200 μg mL(-1). The intra- and interday recovery and precision (relative standard deviation) of the method were 90.91-109.98% and within 10%, respectively, indicating that the developed method could provide reliable, precise and reproducible data. The detection limit was determined to be 0.01-1.99 μg mL(-1), and the quantization limit was determined to be 0.02-6.02 μg mL(-1), which were relatively lower than previous studies.
This method was highly optimized in terms of selectivity, reproducibility and efficiency for the detection of 14 compounds. The validation data indicated that the improved method was quite suitable for their quantitative analysis of commercial product samples. Therefore, this method was applied to the determination of 14 compounds in commercial sunscreen cosmetic products. We verified that the amounts of sunscreen ingredients in the five currently sold sunscreens were >0.5% and within the designated limit, which means those could produce the safe and desired sunscreen effects on the skin. The present method could be applied to effectively monitor the process management and quality control of the cosmetics that are sold in the market.
市售防晒产品包含从无机矿物色素到有机化学吸收剂等多种化合物，以达到所需的防晒程度。然而，紫外线辐射屏蔽成分存在副作用。因此，在本研究中，为确保符合防晒化妆品中化学物质的最大允许浓度，评估了一种同时且改进的防晒化学物质测定方法。
采用配备Waters 486可调吸光度检测器（紫外可见检测器）的Waters 2690分离模块高效液相色谱系统，并进行了优化以检测14种化合物。分离时，使用Waters C18柱（5μm，内径4.6mm，长150mm），以1%的0.1M磷酸乙醇溶液（溶剂A）和蒸馏水（溶剂B）作为流动相。
14种标准混合溶液在2.5 - 200μg mL⁻¹范围内的相关系数超过0.9993。该方法的日内和日间回收率及精密度（相对标准偏差）分别为90.91 - 109.98%和10%以内，表明所开发的方法能够提供可靠、精确且可重复的数据。检测限确定为0.01 - 1.99μg mL⁻¹，定量限确定为0.02 - 6.02μg mL⁻¹，相对先前研究较低。
该方法在检测14种化合物的选择性、重现性和效率方面进行了高度优化。验证数据表明改进后的方法非常适合对市售产品样品进行定量分析。因此，该方法应用于测定市售防晒化妆品中的14种化合物。我们验证了目前销售的五种防晒产品中防晒成分的含量>0.5%且在指定限度内，这意味着它们可以在皮肤上产生安全且理想的防晒效果。本方法可有效应用于监测市场上销售的化妆品的过程管理和质量控制。
