Vigouroux Laurent, Goislard de Monsabert Benjamin, Berton Eric
Aix-Marseille University, CNRS, ISM UMR 7287, 13288, Marseille, France,
Eur J Appl Physiol. 2015 May;115(5):947-57. doi: 10.1007/s00421-014-3076-6. Epub 2014 Dec 17.
This study investigated the hand and wrist muscle capacities among expert rock climbers and compared them with those of non-climbers. The objective was to identify the adaptations resulting from several years of climbing practice.
Twelve climbers (nine males and three females) and 13 non-climber males participated in this study. Each subject performed a set of maximal voluntary contractions about the wrist and the metacarpo-phalengeal joints during which net joint moments and electromyographic activities were recorded. From this data set, the muscle capacities of the five main muscle groups of the hand (wrist flexors, wrist extensors, finger flexors, finger extensors and intrinsic muscles) were estimated using a biomechanical model. This process consisted in adjusting the physiological cross-sectional area (PCSA) and the maximal muscle stress value from an initial generic model.
Results obtained from the model provided several new pieces of information compared to the analysis of only the net joint moments. Particularly, the capacities of the climbers were 37.1 % higher for finger flexors compared to non-climbers and were similar for finger extensor and for the other muscle groups. Climbers thus presented a greater imbalance between flexor and extensor capacities which suggests a potential risk of pathologies.
The practice of climbing not only increased the strength of climbers but also resulted in specific adaptations among hand muscles. The proposed method and the obtained data could be re-used to optimize the training programs as well as the rehabilitation processes following hand pathologies.
本研究调查了专业攀岩者的手部和腕部肌肉能力，并将其与非攀岩者进行比较。目的是确定多年攀岩练习所产生的适应性变化。
12名攀岩者（9名男性和3名女性）和13名非攀岩男性参与了本研究。每位受试者对手腕和掌指关节进行一组最大自主收缩，在此期间记录净关节力矩和肌电图活动。根据该数据集，使用生物力学模型估计手部五个主要肌肉群（腕屈肌、腕伸肌、指屈肌、指伸肌和固有肌）的肌肉能力。这个过程包括从初始通用模型调整生理横截面积（PCSA）和最大肌肉应力值。
与仅分析净关节力矩相比，从模型中获得的结果提供了一些新信息。特别是，攀岩者的指屈肌能力比非攀岩者高37.1%，指伸肌和其他肌肉群的能力相似。因此，攀岩者的屈肌和伸肌能力之间存在更大的不平衡，这表明存在潜在的病理风险。
攀岩练习不仅增强了攀岩者的力量，还导致了手部肌肉的特定适应性变化。所提出的方法和获得的数据可重新用于优化训练计划以及手部病理后的康复过程。
