Marino Thomas K, Coelho Daniel B, Lima-Silva Adriano E, Bertuzzi Romulo
Endurance Performance Research Group (GEDAE-USP), School of Physical Education and Sport, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil.
Center of Engineering, Modelling and Applied Social Science, Federal University of ABC, São Paulo, Brazil.
J Hum Kinet. 2021 Jul 28;79:5-13. doi: 10.2478/hukin-2021-0060. eCollection 2021 Jul.
In the present study, we analysed the validity and reliability of a new tool designed to assist the measurement of maximal upper-limb strength in rock climbers in a specific way, named MBboard. The MBboard consists of an artificial small climbing hold affixed to a wooden board, which is connected to any cable-motion strength equipment to determine the maximum dynamic strength (MBboard-1RM). Ten male rock climbers (Rock Climbing Group, RCG = 10) and ten physically active men (Control Group, CG = 10) performed, on three separate occasions, a familiarization session with procedures adopted during MBboard-1RM testing and two experimental trials (i.e., test and retest) to determine the construct validity and reliability of the MBboard during unilateral seated cable row exercise. In the first trial, the electromyographic activity (EMG) was recorded from the flexor digitorum superficialis. The self-reported climbing ability was also recorded. The RCG had superior performance (i.e. 37.5%) and EMG activity (i.e. 51%) in MBboard-1RM testing when compared with the CG (p < 0.05). There was a significant correlation between the MBboard-1RM results and climbing ability (r > 0.72, p < 0.05). Intraclass correlation coefficient analysis revealed good reliability within trials (ICC > 0.79, p < 0.05). These findings suggest that the MBboard is a valid and reliable tool to assess rock climbing-specific maximal strength. The validity of MBboard-1RM appears to be related to the finger flexor muscles activation, probably reflecting the specific adaptations resulting from long-term practice of this sport discipline.
在本研究中，我们分析了一种新工具的有效性和可靠性，该工具旨在以特定方式辅助测量攀岩者的最大上肢力量，名为MB板。MB板由固定在木板上的人工小型攀爬把手组成，该木板连接到任何缆索运动强度设备上，以确定最大动态力量（MB板-1RM）。十名男性攀岩者（攀岩组，RCG = 10）和十名身体活跃的男性（对照组，CG = 10）在三个不同的场合进行了MB板-1RM测试期间所采用程序的熟悉训练，以及两次实验性试验（即测试和复测），以确定MB板在单侧坐姿缆索划船运动中的结构效度和可靠性。在第一次试验中，记录了指浅屈肌的肌电图活动（EMG）。还记录了自我报告的攀岩能力。与对照组相比，攀岩组在MB板-1RM测试中表现更优（即37.5%）且EMG活动更强（即51%）（p < 0.05）。MB板-1RM结果与攀岩能力之间存在显著相关性（r > 0.72，p < 0.05）。组内相关系数分析显示试验内具有良好的可靠性（ICC > 0.79，p < 0.05）。这些发现表明，MB板是评估攀岩特定最大力量的有效且可靠的工具。MB板-1RM的有效性似乎与手指屈肌的激活有关，这可能反映了长期从事这项运动所产生的特定适应性变化。
