Pham D-M, Boussouira B, Moyal D, Nguyen Q L
L'Oreal Research & Innovation, 188 rue Paul Hochart BP 553, 94152, Chevilly Larue, France.
L'Oreal Research & Innovation, 25-29 Quai Aulagnier, 92665, Asnières-Sur-Seine, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Aug;37(4):357-65. doi: 10.1111/ics.12208. Epub 2015 Mar 2.
A review of the oxidization of squalene, a specific human compound produced by the sebaceous gland, is proposed. Such chemical transformation induces important consequences at various levels. Squalene by-products, mostly under peroxidized forms, lead to comedogenesis, contribute to the development of inflammatory acne and possibly modify the skin relief (wrinkling). Experimental conditions of oxidation and/or photo-oxidation mechanisms are exposed, suggesting that they could possibly be bio-markers of atmospheric pollution upon skin. Ozone, long UVA rays, cigarette smoke… are shown powerful oxidizing agents of squalene. Some in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo testings are proposed as examples, aiming at studying ingredients or products capable of boosting or counteracting such chemical changes that, globally, bring adverse effects to various cutaneous compartments.
本文提出了对角鲨烯氧化的综述，角鲨烯是一种由皮脂腺产生的特定人体化合物。这种化学转化在各个层面都产生了重要影响。角鲨烯副产物大多以过氧化形式存在，会导致粉刺形成，促进炎性痤疮的发展，并可能改变皮肤纹理（皱纹）。文中阐述了氧化和/或光氧化机制的实验条件，表明它们可能是皮肤受大气污染的生物标志物。臭氧、长波紫外线、香烟烟雾……被证明是角鲨烯的强氧化剂。文中列举了一些体外、离体和体内测试的例子，旨在研究能够促进或抵消此类化学变化的成分或产品，总体而言，这些化学变化会给皮肤的各个部分带来不良影响。
