Lee Sang Yeul, Baek Namhuk, Nam Tae-gyu
a Department of Pharmacy and Institute of Pharmaceutical Science and Technology , Hanyang University , Ansan , Gyeonggi-do , South Korea.
J Enzyme Inhib Med Chem. 2016;31(1):1-13. doi: 10.3109/14756366.2015.1004058. Epub 2015 Feb 16.
Tyrosinase plays a pivotal role in the synthesis of melanin pigment synthesis on skin utilizing tyrosine as a substrate. Melanin is responsible for the protection against harmful ultraviolet irradiation, which can cause significant pathological conditions, such as skin cancers. However, it can also create esthetic problems when accumulated as hyperpigmented spots. Various skin-whitening ingredients which inhibit tyrosinase activity have been identified. Some of them, especially ones with natural product origins, possess phenolic moiety and have been employed in cosmetic products. Semi-synthetic and synthetic inhibitors have also been developed under inspiration of the natural inhibitors yet some of which have no phenolic groups. In this review, tyrosinase inhibitors with natural, semi-synthetic and synthetic origins are listed up with their structures, activities and characteristics. Further, a recent report on the adverse effect of a natural melanin synthesis inhibitor which was included in skin-whitening cosmetics is also briefly discussed.
酪氨酸酶在以酪氨酸为底物的皮肤黑色素合成过程中起着关键作用。黑色素负责抵御有害的紫外线照射,紫外线可导致严重的病理状况,如皮肤癌。然而,当黑色素积累形成色素沉着斑时,也会产生美观问题。已鉴定出多种抑制酪氨酸酶活性的皮肤美白成分。其中一些,特别是天然产物来源的成分,含有酚基部分,并已用于化妆品中。在天然抑制剂的启发下,也开发了半合成和合成抑制剂,但其中一些没有酚基。在本综述中,列出了天然、半合成和合成来源的酪氨酸酶抑制剂及其结构、活性和特性。此外,还简要讨论了最近一份关于美白化妆品中所含天然黑色素合成抑制剂不良反应的报告。