Ryu Ja Hyun, Seok Jin Kyung, An Sang Mi, Baek Ji Hwoon, Koh Jae Sook, Boo Yong Chool
Dermapro Skin Research Center, Dermapro Ltd., Seoul, Republic of Korea.
Arch Dermatol Res. 2015 Apr;307(3):239-47. doi: 10.1007/s00403-015-1556-0. Epub 2015 Mar 7.
Resveratrol has a variety of bioactivities that include its anti-melanogenic effects, but its use in cosmetics has been challenging partly because of its chemical instability. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a prodrug that can enhance stability. The purpose of this study was to examine the skin safety and whitening effects of RTA in human subjects. The primary skin irritation potentials of RTA and resveratrol were tested at 0.1 and 0.5 % on human subjects. Resveratrol at a concentration of 0.5 % induced weak skin irritation, whereas RTA did not induce any skin responses. The skin-whitening efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing 0.4 % RTA was evaluated in two different test models. In the artificial tanning model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the skin of the forearms of 22 human subjects after pigmentation induction by ultraviolet irradiation. Applying the test and the control products to the artificial tanning model for 8 weeks increased the individual topology angles (ITA°) by 17.06 and 13.81 %, respectively, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). In the hyperpigmentation model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the faces of 21 human subjects. The averaged intensity of the hyperpigmented spots decreased by 2.67 % in the test group and 1.46 % in the control group, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). Therefore, RTA incorporated into cosmetic formulations can whiten human skin without inducing skin irritation.
白藜芦醇具有多种生物活性,包括其抗黑素生成作用,但由于其化学不稳定性,它在化妆品中的应用一直具有挑战性。白藜芦醇三乙酸酯(RTA)是一种前药,可以提高稳定性。本研究的目的是检测RTA在人体中的皮肤安全性和美白效果。在人体受试者上以0.1%和0.5%的浓度测试了RTA和白藜芦醇的原发性皮肤刺激潜力。浓度为0.5%的白藜芦醇引起轻微的皮肤刺激,而RTA未引起任何皮肤反应。在两种不同的测试模型中评估了含有0.4%RTA的化妆品配方的皮肤美白功效。在人工晒黑模型中,在通过紫外线照射诱导色素沉着后,将测试产品和对照产品每天两次涂抹于22名人体受试者前臂的皮肤上。在人工晒黑模型中应用测试产品和对照产品8周后,个体拓扑角(ITA°)分别增加了17.06%和13.81%,差异具有统计学意义(p<0.05)。在色素沉着过度模型中,将测试产品和对照产品每天两次涂抹于21名人体受试者的面部。测试组中色素沉着过度斑点的平均强度下降了2.67%,对照组中下降了1.46%,差异具有统计学意义(p<0.05)。因此,添加到化妆品配方中的RTA可以美白人体皮肤而不引起皮肤刺激。