Casanova Francisca, Santos Lúcia
a LEPABE, Departamento De Engenharia Química , Faculdade De Engenharia Da Universidade Do Porto , Rua Dr. Roberto Frias , Porto , Portugal.
J Microencapsul. 2016 Feb;33(1):1-17. doi: 10.3109/02652048.2015.1115900. Epub 2015 Nov 26.
Microencapsulation is finding increasing applications in cosmetics and personal care markets. This article provides an overall discussion on encapsulation of cosmetically active ingredients and encapsulation techniques for cosmetic and personal care products for topical applications. Some of the challenges are identified and critical aspects and future perspectives are addressed. Many cosmetics and personal care products contain biologically active substances that require encapsulation for increased stability of the active materials. The topical and transdermal delivery of active cosmetic ingredients requires effective, controlled and safe means of reaching the target site within the skin. Preservation of the active ingredients is also essential during formulation, storage and application of the final cosmetic product. Microencapsulation offers an ideal and unique carrier system for cosmetic active ingredients, as it has the potential to respond to all these requirements. The encapsulated agent can be released by several mechanisms, such as mechanical action, heat, diffusion, pH, biodegradation and dissolution. The selection of the encapsulation technique and shell material depends on the final application of the product, considering physical and chemical stability, concentration, required particle size, release mechanism and manufacturing costs.
微胶囊化在化妆品和个人护理市场中的应用越来越广泛。本文全面讨论了化妆品活性成分的包封以及用于局部应用的化妆品和个人护理产品的包封技术。识别了一些挑战，并探讨了关键方面和未来前景。许多化妆品和个人护理产品都含有生物活性物质，为提高活性物质的稳定性需要对其进行包封。活性化妆品成分的局部和透皮递送需要有效、可控且安全的方式才能到达皮肤内的目标部位。在最终化妆品的配方、储存和使用过程中，活性成分的保存也至关重要。微胶囊化为化妆品活性成分提供了理想且独特的载体系统，因为它有潜力满足所有这些要求。被包封的物质可通过多种机制释放，如机械作用、热、扩散、pH值、生物降解和溶解。包封技术和壳材料的选择取决于产品的最终应用，要考虑物理和化学稳定性、浓度、所需粒径、释放机制和制造成本。
