Goffin V, Piérard-Franchimont C, Piérard G E
Belgian SSTC Research Unit 5596, Department of Dermatopathology, University of Liège, Belgium.
Skin Res Technol. 1997 Nov;3(4):242-4. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.1997.tb00192.x.
BACKGROUND/AIMS: Surfactants may elicit several undesirable effects on the skin. The stratum corneum is one of the targets showing primary changes after a short contact with detergents. Corneosurfametry was introduced as an ex vivo bioassay to assess the interaction and compatibility of surfactants with human stratum corneum. The present work introduces a variant of the regular corneosurfametry test.
Microwaving set at 750 W for 30 s was used to shorten the duration of the technical procedure and to allow the rating of neat surfactant-containing products. The color of samples (L.* and Chroma C*) was measured to derive the colorimetric index of mildness (CIM), the values of which rise from 0 to 70 with increasing surfactant mildness toward human stratum corneum. Data were compared with standard corneosurfametry performed at 20 and 40°C.
Data indicate that increasing the temperature of the test solutions and microwaving alter the CIM values of most surfactants. Only the most gentle products are little affected. An overall good correlation exists between the regular and microwave corneosurfametry data.
Microwave corneosurfametry is a new sensitive tool for predicting skin compatibility of surfactants.
背景/目的：表面活性剂可能会对皮肤产生多种不良影响。角质层是在与洗涤剂短暂接触后出现主要变化的靶标之一。角质表面活性测定法作为一种体外生物测定法被引入，用于评估表面活性剂与人体角质层的相互作用和相容性。本研究介绍了常规角质表面活性测定试验的一种变体。
使用750瓦微波辐射30秒来缩短技术流程的持续时间，并允许对含表面活性剂的纯产品进行评级。测量样品的颜色（L.和色度C）以得出温和性比色指数（CIM），其值随着表面活性剂对人体角质层温和性的增加从0升至70。将数据与在20和40°C下进行的标准角质表面活性测定结果进行比较。
数据表明，提高测试溶液的温度和微波辐射会改变大多数表面活性剂的CIM值。只有最温和的产品受影响较小。常规和微波角质表面活性测定数据之间总体存在良好的相关性。
微波角质表面活性测定法是预测表面活性剂皮肤相容性的一种新型敏感工具。
