Cho Yi-Tzu, Su Hung, Lin Shiang-Jiun, Wu Ban-Hsin, Lai Ching-Yu, Huang I-Ching
Department of Cosmetic Applications and Management, Yuh-Ing Junior College of Health Care & Management, Kaohsiung, Taiwan.
Department of Chemistry, National Sun Yat-Sen University, Kaohsiung, Taiwan.
Rapid Commun Mass Spectrom. 2016 Nov 15;30(21):2315-2322. doi: 10.1002/rcm.7706.
Characterization and quantification of permitted preservatives are important inspections to prevent the overuse of preservatives in authentic formulations. However, the complexity of sample matrices makes preservative determination in cosmetics a tedious process. A rapid analytical strategy to identify preservatives would insure large numbers of products are in compliance with government regulations.
Thermal desorption electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (TD-ESI-MS) was used to directly detect preservative compounds in authentic formulations without sample pretreatment. The technique employs a metal probe, which was configured for sampling cosmetics in their original states and was inserted in a closed preheated oven to thermally desorb analytes. The desorbed analytes were then carried by a nitrogen gas stream into an ESI plume, where the formed ions were subsequently detected by the mass analyzer.
The TD-ESI mass and tandem mass spectra of different classes of preservative standards were rapidly obtained, and the limits of detection were far below the legal limit of their respective concentrations. The preservatives were also directly detected in different types of authentic formulations in the absence of sample preparation, and within a few seconds per sample. Calibration curves for preservatives in four common formulations yielded good linearity in the regulation-allowed range.
Due to its sensitivity, short analysis time, repeatability, and quantitative ability, TD-ESI-MS may serve as a suitable tool for large-scale screening of cosmetic preservatives to assure product safety. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
对允许使用的防腐剂进行表征和定量是重要的检查手段，可防止在正品配方中过度使用防腐剂。然而，样品基质的复杂性使得化妆品中防腐剂的测定成为一个繁琐的过程。一种快速分析策略来识别防腐剂将确保大量产品符合政府法规。
热脱附电喷雾电离质谱法（TD-ESI-MS）用于直接检测正品配方中的防腐剂化合物，无需样品预处理。该技术采用金属探针，其配置用于对原始状态的化妆品进行采样，并插入封闭的预热烘箱中以热脱附分析物。然后，脱附的分析物由氮气流带入电喷雾羽流中，在那里形成的离子随后由质量分析仪检测。
快速获得了不同类别的防腐剂标准品的TD-ESI质谱和串联质谱，检测限远低于各自浓度的法定限值。在无需样品制备的情况下，还直接在不同类型的正品配方中检测到了防腐剂，每个样品只需几秒钟。四种常见配方中防腐剂的校准曲线在法规允许的范围内具有良好的线性。
由于其灵敏度、分析时间短、重复性和定量能力，TD-ESI-MS可作为大规模筛选化妆品防腐剂以确保产品安全的合适工具。版权所有©2016约翰威立父子有限公司。
