Taofiq Oludemi, Heleno Sandrina A, Calhelha Ricardo C, Alves Maria José, Barros Lillian, Barreiro Maria Filomena, González-Paramás Ana M, Ferreira Isabel C F R
Mountain Research Centre (CIMO), ESA, Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 1172, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal.
GIP-USAL, Unidad de Nutrición y Bromatología, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Salamanca, Campus Miguel de Unamuno, 37007 Salamanca, Spain.
Molecules. 2016 Oct 14;21(10):1372. doi: 10.3390/molecules21101372.
The cosmetic industry is in a constant search for natural compounds or extracts with relevant bioactive properties, which became valuable ingredients to design cosmeceutical formulations. Mushrooms have been markedly studied in terms of nutritional value and medicinal properties. However, there is still slow progress in the biotechnological application of mushroom extracts in cosmetic formulations, either as antioxidants, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory agents or as hyperpigmentation correctors. In the present work, the cosmeceutical potential of ethanolic extracts prepared from , , and was analyzed in terms of anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and antibacterial activities. The extracts were characterized in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol composition, and further incorporated in a base cosmetic cream to achieve the same bioactive purposes. From the results obtained, the final cosmeceutical formulations presented 85%-100% of the phenolic acids and ergosterol levels found in the mushroom extracts, suggesting that there was no significant loss of bioactive compounds. The final cosmeceutical formulation also displayed all the ascribed bioactivities and as such, mushrooms can further be exploited as natural cosmeceutical ingredients.
化妆品行业一直在不断寻找具有相关生物活性特性的天然化合物或提取物,这些化合物或提取物成为设计药妆配方的宝贵成分。蘑菇在营养价值和药用特性方面已得到显著研究。然而,蘑菇提取物在化妆品配方中的生物技术应用,无论是作为抗氧化剂、抗衰老剂、抗菌剂和抗炎剂,还是作为色素沉着校正剂,进展仍然缓慢。在本研究中,对从[具体蘑菇名称1]、[具体蘑菇名称2]和[具体蘑菇名称3]制备的乙醇提取物的药妆潜力进行了抗炎、抗酪氨酸酶、抗氧化和抗菌活性分析。对提取物进行了酚酸和麦角甾醇成分表征,并进一步将其添加到基础美容霜中以达到相同的生物活性目的。从获得的结果来看,最终的药妆配方呈现出蘑菇提取物中85%-100%的酚酸和麦角甾醇水平,这表明生物活性化合物没有显著损失。最终的药妆配方还显示出所有归因的生物活性,因此,蘑菇可以进一步作为天然药妆成分加以利用。