Gordoa Ana, Carreras Gustavo, Sanz Nuria, Viñas Jordi
Department of Marine Ecology. Centro de Estudios Avanzados de Blanes, Spanish National Research Council (CSIC). Blanes, Girona, Spain.
Laboratory of Genetic Ichthyology. Department of Biology, Faculty of Sciences, University of Girona, Spain.
PLoS One. 2017 Jan 26;12(1):e0170809. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0170809. eCollection 2017.
Intentional mislabelling of seafood is a widespread problem, particularly with high-value species like tuna. In this study we examine tuna mislabelling, deliberate species substitution, types of substitution and its impact on prices. The survey covered the commercial chain, from Merca-Barna to fishmongers and restaurants in the Spanish Autonomous Community of Catalonia. To understand the geographic extent of the problem we also sampled Merca-Madrid, Europe's biggest fish market, and Merca-Málaga for its proximity to the bluefin tuna migratory route and trap fishery. Monthly surveys were carried out over one year. The results showed a high deficiency in labelling: 75% of points of sale and 83% of restaurants did not specify the species, and in those cases the name of the species had to be asked. A total of 375 samples were analysed genetically, the largest dataset gathered in Europe so far. The identified species were Thunnus albacares, Thunnus thynnus and Thunnus obesus. Species substitution began at suppliers, with 40% of observed cases, increasing to 58% at fishmongers and 62% at restaurants. The substitution was mainly on bluefin tuna (T. thynnus), 73% of cases. At restaurants, only during the bluefin fishing season, we observed a decrease of Bluefin tuna substitution and an increase of reverse substitution revealing some illegal fishing. The effect of species substitution on species prices was relevant: T. obesus increased its price by around €12 kg-1 when it was sold as bluefin. In view of the deficiency of labelling, the abuse of generic names and the lack of the bluefin catch document, we conclude that the Spanish regulations are ineffective, highlighting the need for policy execution, and the urgent need for information campaigns to Spanish consumers.
故意对海鲜进行错误标注是一个普遍存在的问题,尤其是对于金枪鱼等高价值物种。在本研究中,我们调查了金枪鱼的错误标注、故意的物种替代、替代类型及其对价格的影响。该调查涵盖了商业链条,从巴塞罗那中央市场到加泰罗尼亚自治区西班牙的鱼贩和餐馆。为了解该问题的地理范围,我们还对欧洲最大的鱼类市场马德里中央市场以及因靠近蓝鳍金枪鱼洄游路线和诱捕渔业而选取的马拉加中央市场进行了抽样。在一年时间里每月进行调查。结果显示标注存在严重不足:75%的销售点和83%的餐馆未明确物种,在这些情况下必须询问物种名称。总共对375个样本进行了基因分析,这是迄今为止欧洲收集到的最大数据集。鉴定出的物种有黄鳍金枪鱼、大西洋蓝鳍金枪鱼和大眼金枪鱼。物种替代始于供应商,观察到的案例中有40%,在鱼贩处增加到58%,在餐馆处增加到62%。替代主要针对蓝鳍金枪鱼(大西洋蓝鳍金枪鱼),占案例的73%。在餐馆,仅在蓝鳍金枪鱼捕捞季节,我们观察到蓝鳍金枪鱼替代减少,反向替代增加,这揭示了一些非法捕捞行为。物种替代对物种价格的影响很大:大眼金枪鱼作为蓝鳍金枪鱼出售时,其价格每公斤上涨约12欧元。鉴于标注不足、通用名称的滥用以及蓝鳍金枪鱼捕捞文件的缺失,我们得出结论,西班牙的法规无效,强调了政策执行的必要性,以及迫切需要向西班牙消费者开展宣传活动。