Souza Carla, Maia Campos Patrícia, Schanzer Sabine, Albrecht Stephanie, Lohan Silke B, Lademann Jürgen, Darvin Maxim E, Meinke Martina C
Laboratory of Cosmetic Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Ribeirão Preto, Brazil.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2017;30(2):81-89. doi: 10.1159/000458158. Epub 2017 Mar 21.
BACKGROUND/AIM: The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.
The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.
Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.
A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.
背景/目的:外在皮肤老化的主要原因是自由基的负面作用。皮肤中自由基的形成与紫外线(UV)照射有关,也与可见光(VIS)和近红外(NIR)辐射有关。本研究的目的是评估一款防晒霜在整个太阳光谱范围内的功效。
使用电子顺磁共振光谱法评估一款防晒霜在紫外、可见和近红外波段的自由基清除活性。在应用后不同时间点,使用共聚焦拉曼显微镜测定在猪耳皮肤上的体外渗透情况。
与未处理的皮肤相比,该防晒霜减少了紫外线和可见光区域皮肤自由基的形成。对于含有抗氧化剂(AO)的防晒霜,在可见光和近红外波段观察到了额外的防护效果。在所有时间点,该面霜的渗透深度均小于11.2±3.0µm。
含有抗氧化剂的防晒霜改善了在可见光和近红外波段的光防护效果。该防晒霜保留在角质层中。因此,这些结果表明开发有效且更安全的防晒产品是有可能的。