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一种天然软体动物卵源性成分在面部外观中的作用。

The Role of a Natural Mollusk Egg-Derived Ingredient in Facial Appearance.

作者信息

Draelos Zoe Diana

出版信息

J Drugs Dermatol. 2017 Jul 1;16(7):678-681.

Abstract

New cosmeceutical ingredients that improve skin appearance are of interest to the dermatologist. Cryptomphalus aspersa is a snail raised on farms in Spain for its mucinous secretions and eggs. These natural products have been demonstrated in vitro to trigger mesenchymal stem cell differentiation, promote dermal fibroblast and keratinocyte migration, prevent keratinocyte aging, prevent oxidative damage, stimulate the extracellular matrix, and regulate MMPs. This 12-week study enrolled 40 male and female subjects age 40-70 years of Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV with moderate to severe facial aging and Rao-Goldman scores of 4-5 who applied an eye and face anti-aging cream twice daily containing a mollusk egg extract. Dermatologist investigator, subject, and elasticity assessments were performed at baseline, week 8, and week 12. At week 12, the investigator rated a 53% reduction in skin roughness (P less than 0.001), 26% improvement in skin brightness (P less than 0.001), and 12% reduction in skin dyspigmentation (P=0.033). The noninvasive elastometer measurements demonstrated an increase in skin elasticity at week 8 of 11% with a continuing elasticity increase at week 12 of 39% (P less than 0.001). The formulation studied included moisturizing, emollient, film-forming, and retinoid ingredients in addition to the mollusk egg extract to produce the clinical improvement.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(7):678-681.

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摘要

改善皮肤外观的新型药妆成分受到皮肤科医生的关注。西班牙农场养殖的玛瑙螺因其黏液分泌物和卵而备受关注。这些天然产物已在体外被证明可触发间充质干细胞分化、促进真皮成纤维细胞和角质形成细胞迁移、预防角质形成细胞衰老、防止氧化损伤、刺激细胞外基质并调节基质金属蛋白酶。这项为期12周的研究招募了40名年龄在40 - 70岁之间、Fitzpatrick皮肤类型为I - IV型、面部有中度至重度衰老且Rao - Goldman评分为4 - 5分的男性和女性受试者,他们每天两次涂抹含有软体动物卵提取物的眼部和面部抗衰老面霜。在基线、第8周和第12周进行皮肤科医生评估、受试者评估和弹性评估。在第12周时,研究者评定皮肤粗糙度降低了53%(P < 0.001),皮肤亮度提高了26%(P < 0.001),皮肤色素沉着减少了12%(P = 0.033)。非侵入性弹性计测量显示,第8周时皮肤弹性增加了11%,第12周时持续增加至39%(P < 0.001)。所研究的配方除了软体动物卵提取物外,还包括保湿、润肤、成膜和类视黄醇成分,从而产生了临床改善效果。

《皮肤药物学杂志》2017年;16(7):678 - 681。

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