Lee Shu-Mei, Liu Kun-Ho, Liu Yen-Yu, Chang Yen-Po, Lin Chih-Chien, Chen Yi-Shyan
Department of Cosmetic Science and Management, Mackay Medicine, Nursing and Management College, 92 Shengjing Road, Beitou, Taipei 11260, Taiwan.
Advanced Delivery Technology Co. Ltd, 5F, D Building, No.120, Zhonghua Rd., Hsinchu Industrial Park, Hukou Township, Hsinchu 30352, Taiwan.
Materials (Basel). 2013 Mar 28;6(4):1391-1402. doi: 10.3390/ma6041391.
Chitosonic Acid, carboxymethyl hexanoyl chitosan, is a novel chitosan material that has recently been accepted by the Personal Care Products Council as a new cosmetic ingredient with the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) name Carboxymethyl Caprooyl Chitosan. In this study, we analyze several important cosmetic characteristics of Chitosonic Acid. Our results demonstrate that Chitosonic Acid is a water-soluble chitosan derivative with a high HLB value. Chitosonic Acid can form a nano-network structure when its concentration is higher than 0.5% and can self-assemble into a nanosphere structure when its concentration is lower than 0.2%. Chitosonic Acid has potent antimicrobial activities against gram-positive bacteria, gram-negative bacteria and fungus. Chitosonic Acid also has moderate DPPH radical scavenging activity. Additionally, Chitosonic Acid exhibits good hydration activity for absorbing and retaining water molecules with its hydrophilic groups. From a safety point of view, Chitosonic Acid has no cytotoxicity to L-929 cells if its concentration is less than 0.5%. Moreover, Chitosonic Acid has good compatibilities with various normal cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, we propose that Chitosonic Acid has the potential to be a widely used ingredient in various types of cosmetic products.
壳糖酸,即羧甲基己酰壳聚糖,是一种新型壳聚糖材料,最近已被个人护理产品委员会认可为一种新的化妆品成分,其国际化妆品原料命名(INCI)名称为羧甲基己酰壳聚糖。在本研究中,我们分析了壳糖酸的几个重要化妆品特性。我们的结果表明,壳糖酸是一种具有高亲水亲油平衡(HLB)值的水溶性壳聚糖衍生物。当壳糖酸浓度高于0.5%时可形成纳米网络结构,浓度低于0.2%时可自组装成纳米球结构。壳糖酸对革兰氏阳性菌、革兰氏阴性菌和真菌具有强大的抗菌活性。壳糖酸还具有中等的1,1-二苯基-2-三硝基苯肼(DPPH)自由基清除活性。此外,壳糖酸通过其亲水基团表现出良好的保湿活性,能够吸收和保留水分子。从安全性角度来看,壳糖酸浓度低于0.5%时对L-929细胞无细胞毒性。而且,壳糖酸与各种普通化妆品成分具有良好的相容性。因此,我们认为壳糖酸有潜力成为各类化妆品中广泛使用的成分。