Karinen Heikki M, Tuomisto Martti T
1 Unit for Occupational Health, Faculty of Social Sciences, University of Tampere , Tampere, Finland .
2 Faculty of Social Sciences (Psychology), University of Tampere , Tampere, Finland .
High Alt Med Biol. 2017 Dec;18(4):400-410. doi: 10.1089/ham.2017.0033. Epub 2017 Sep 26.
Karinen, Heikki M., and Martti T. Tuomisto. Performance, mood, and anxiety during a climb of Mount Everest. High Alt Med Biol. 18:400-410, 2017.
Various studies have shown the deleterious effects of high-altitude hypoxia on visual, motor, somatosensory, cognitive, and emotional function and also in intelligence tests, reaction time, speech comprehension, hand steadiness, visual contrast discrimination, and word association tests. Because optimal cognitive abilities may be crucial for mountain climbers' safety, this study was intended to evaluate the changes in cognitive performance, mood, and anxiety during an Everest expedition lasting almost 3 months.
A set of physiological (Lake Louise score, oxygen saturation), cognitive (Colorado perceptual speed [CPS] test, number comparison [NC] test), and emotional measurements (Profile of Mood States, anxiety responses, psychological inflexibility) were collected from nine climbers on a partly unsupported Mount Everest expedition at various time points during the course of the expedition at Everest Base Camp (EBC). For confidence intervals we used 95% simultaneous Bonferroni corrected interval (BCI) for the differences.
During this expedition, the estimates of trait anxiety decreased 13% toward the end of expedition after successful summiting (p = 0.004). Simultaneously, fatigue appeared to diminish and the CPS speed results improved 13%. Most expedition members suffered mild symptoms of acute mountain sickness during the first days in the EBC, but this did not affect the speed or the number of mistakes made in the CPS or NC tests. In CPS test the differences between pretest and the physically most demanding period (EBC4, BCI: 0.01, 4.43) and between EBC1 and EBC4 (BCI: 0.57, 4.99), between EBC2 and EBC4 (BCI: 0.45, 4.88), and between EBC3 and EBC4 (BCI: 1.12, 5.55) were significant, showing ever improving results during the expedition.
The most important finding in this study was that well-motivated and trained, self-selected individuals, who volunteer for a long-duration mission, are capable of maintaining high levels of performance, steady mood state, and a good level of vigor on a Mount Everest expedition lasting nearly 3 months.
卡里宁，海基·M.，以及马尔蒂·T. 图奥米斯托。攀登珠穆朗玛峰期间的表现、情绪和焦虑。《高海拔医学与生物学》。18:400 - 410，2017年。
多项研究表明，高海拔低氧对视觉、运动、躯体感觉、认知和情绪功能以及智力测试、反应时间、言语理解、手部稳定性、视觉对比度辨别和词语联想测试均有有害影响。由于最佳认知能力可能对登山者的安全至关重要，本研究旨在评估一次持续近3个月的珠峰探险期间认知表现、情绪和焦虑的变化。
在珠峰大本营（EBC）对9名参与部分自给式珠峰探险的登山者在探险过程中的不同时间点收集了一系列生理指标（路易斯湖评分、血氧饱和度）、认知指标（科罗拉多感知速度[CPS]测试、数字比较[NC]测试）和情绪指标（情绪状态剖面图、焦虑反应、心理灵活性）。对于置信区间，我们使用95%同时邦费罗尼校正区间（BCI）来分析差异。
在这次探险中，成功登顶后，特质焦虑估计值在探险接近尾声时下降了13%（p = 0.004）。同时，疲劳似乎减轻，CPS速度结果提高了13%。大多数探险队员在抵达EBC的头几天出现了轻度急性高山病症状，但这并未影响CPS或NC测试的速度或错误数量。在CPS测试中，测试前与身体需求最大时期（EBC4，BCI：0.01，4.43）之间以及EBC1与EBC4之间（BCI：0.57，4.99）、EBC2与EBC4之间（BCI：0.45，4.88）、EBC3与EBC4之间（BCI：1.12，5.55）的差异显著，表明在探险过程中结果不断改善。
本研究最重要的发现是，动机良好且经过训练、自行选择参与长期任务的个体，能够在持续近3个月的珠峰探险中保持高水平的表现、稳定的情绪状态和良好的活力水平。
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