Dilutional effect of increased sebaceous gland activity on the proportion of linoleic acid in sebaceous wax esters and in epidermal acylceramides.

Sebaceous wax esters and epidermal acylceramides were isolated from skin surface lipid obtained from children and from young adults. Fatty acid methyl esters (FAME) were prepared from the esterified fatty acids of these lipid classes and analyzed to ascertain the proportions of methyl linoleate (18:2 delta 9,12), methyl sebaleate (18:2 delta 5,8), and methyl sapienate (16:1 delta 6). On the same subjects, 2 measures of sebum secretion rate were obtained, namely the sustainable wax ester secretion rate (WESR) on the forehead and the ratio of wax esters/(cholesterol + cholesterol esters) [WE/(CH + CE)] in the surface lipid. The proportions of methyl linoleate in FAME from the wax esters decreased, and the proportions of methyl sebaleate increased, with increased rates of sebum secretion. For both methyl linoleate and methyl sebaleate, a better correlation was obtained when the ratio of WE/(CH + CE) was used as a measure of sebum secretion rather than the WESR. The proportions of methyl linoleate in the FAME from the acylceramides were also inversely related to ratios of WE/(CH + CE). In acylceramides, linoleate was replaced by sapienate, a major fatty acid of human sebum. It appears, therefore, that sebum fatty acid composition may change with changes in sebaceous gland activity, and that sebum fatty acids can enter the epidermis and be incorporated into epidermal lipids.