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人类皮肤除紫外线辐射之外的光保护作用

Photoprotection of human skin beyond ultraviolet radiation.

作者信息

Grether-Beck Susanne, Marini Alessandra, Jaenicke Thomas, Krutmann Jean

机构信息

IUF - Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine, Düsseldorf, Germany.

出版信息

Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2014 Apr-Jun;30(2-3):167-74. doi: 10.1111/phpp.12111. Epub 2014 Feb 19.

Abstract

Photoprotection of human skin by means of sunscreens or daily skin-care products is traditionally centered around the prevention of acute (e.g. sunburn) and chronic (e.g. skin cancer and photoaging) skin damage that may result from exposure to ultraviolet rays (UVB and UVA). Within the last decade, however, it has been appreciated that wavelengths beyond the ultraviolet spectrum, in particular visible light and infrared radiation, contribute to skin damage in general and photoaging of human skin in particular. As a consequence, attempts have been made to develop skin care/sunscreen products that not only protect against UVB or UVA radiation but provide photoprotection against visible light and infrared radiation as well. In this article, we will briefly review the current knowledge about the mechanisms responsible for visible light/infrared radiation-induced skin damage and then, based on this information, discuss strategies that have been successfully used or may be employed in the future to achieve photoprotection of human skin beyond ultraviolet radiation. In this regard we will particularly focus on the use of topical antioxidants and the challenges that result from the task of showing their efficacy.

摘要

传统上,通过防晒霜或日常护肤品对人类皮肤进行光保护主要围绕预防因暴露于紫外线(UVB和UVA)可能导致的急性(如晒伤)和慢性(如皮肤癌和光老化)皮肤损伤。然而,在过去十年中,人们认识到紫外线光谱以外的波长,特别是可见光和红外线,总体上会导致皮肤损伤,尤其是人类皮肤的光老化。因此,人们已尝试开发不仅能抵御UVB或UVA辐射,还能提供针对可见光和红外线辐射的光保护的护肤品/防晒霜产品。在本文中,我们将简要回顾目前关于可见光/红外线辐射引起皮肤损伤的机制的知识,然后基于此信息,讨论已成功使用或未来可能采用的实现人类皮肤超越紫外线辐射的光保护的策略。在这方面,我们将特别关注局部抗氧化剂的使用以及证明其功效这项任务所带来的挑战。

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