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迈向更可持续的饮食:“美食家”饮食理念的启示及其对政策策略的相关性。

Towards more sustainable diets: Insights from the food philosophies of "gourmets" and their relevance for policy strategies.

机构信息

University of Bayreuth, Universitätsstraße 30, 95447 Bayreuth, Germany.

Institute for Environmental Studies, VU University, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

出版信息

Appetite. 2018 Aug 1;127:59-68. doi: 10.1016/j.appet.2018.04.022. Epub 2018 Apr 25.

DOI:10.1016/j.appet.2018.04.022
PMID:29704541
Abstract

Food has become a central focus for the achievement of sustainability objectives. One of the current challenges is that promoting food sustainability requires much more attention to cultural and social contexts and the food philosophies of specific groups of consumers. The present paper focuses on those consumers in the Netherlands who intrinsically appreciate the taste and the quality of food (hereafter "gourmets"). Our expectation was that, due to their respect for the origin of food and their distance from mainstream food culture, the gourmets may be able to reveal practices and cultural assumptions that help to find entry points for promoting more sustainable food choices among the general population. Drawing on literature about gastronomy, Slow Food and craft consumption, fifteen in-depth interviews were held to examine the food philosophies of individual gourmets from a health and sustainability perspective. The results demonstrated how the values of pleasure of taste, food competences and social relatedness may contribute to the extent of complementarity between culinary and ethical principles. Entry points for promoting change in a more sustainable direction include a shift from quantity to quality, such as meals with less but better meat, a shift towards making meals less focused on meat and a general open-mindedness towards other eating styles (a new look at vegetables), a shift to planning for a competent use of leftovers and a shift in willingness to accept limitations on food choices, such as the seasonal unavailability of food.

摘要

食物已成为实现可持续性目标的核心关注点。目前的挑战之一是,推广食物可持续性需要更加关注文化和社会背景,以及特定消费群体的饮食哲学。本文聚焦于荷兰那些本质上欣赏食物味道和质量的消费者(以下简称“美食家”)。我们预计,由于他们尊重食物的起源,并与主流饮食文化保持距离,美食家们可能能够揭示出有助于为大众推广更可持续的食物选择的实践和文化假设。本研究借助美食学、慢食运动和工艺消费方面的文献,通过 15 次深入访谈,从健康和可持续性的角度考察了个体美食家的饮食哲学。研究结果表明,味觉享受、食物能力和社交关联性等价值观在多大程度上有助于烹饪和伦理原则之间的互补性。促进向更可持续方向转变的切入点包括从数量向质量的转变,例如减少但更好的肉类餐,减少对肉类的关注,以及对其他饮食方式(重新审视蔬菜)持开放态度,转向计划合理利用剩余食物,并愿意接受食物选择的限制,例如食物季节性短缺。

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