Del Moral Raimundo G
Department of Anatomical Pathology, Hospital San Cecilio, University of Granada, Granada, Spain.
Instituto de Investigación Biosanitaria de Granada, Granada, Spain.
Front Nutr. 2020 Jan 10;6:192. doi: 10.3389/fnut.2019.00192. eCollection 2019.
Thomas Kuhn brings the concept of "paradigm" as the fundamental engine in the progress of humanity. Kuhn defines paradigms as the set of formal theories, experiments and work methods that define a process (scientific, economic, social, and in this case, contemporary haute cuisine), in a given time. According to Kuhn, progress does not happen by gradual accumulation of knowledge, but rather by abrupt advances. In this review, the conceptual evolution experienced by contemporary gastronomy (from the French Revolution to today) is analyzed applying the paradigm structure in light of the scientific knowledge of each era. It is thus reviewed how the first and second gastronomic paradigms, proposed, respectively, by Carême and Escoffier and based on food smell and taste the first and the flavor of the sauces the second, have been replaced by the third and fourth paradigms, led, respectively, by the Nouvelle Cuisine in France and Ferrán Adriá in Spain, and in whose development touch, sight, and sound have become increasingly prominent in gastronomic pleasure. Finally, it is analyzed how new trends in gastronomy: (1) worldwide diffusion of the Spanish tapas; (2) globalization of ethnic and fusion cuisines; (3) the growing disappearance of the professional gastronomic critique and its replacement by mass media influencers; (4) the increase of sustainability in cooking with development of local-, vegan-, and paleo-cooking, comfort, and smart food and finally, (5) the growing role of social networks and the self-itis linked to photography or foodstagramming in the gastronomic experience are leading toward a new gastronomic paradigm based on the global socialization of classic gastronomy.
托马斯·库恩提出“范式”概念，将其视为人类进步的根本动力。库恩将范式定义为在特定时期定义一个过程（科学、经济、社会，在本文中则是当代高级烹饪）的形式理论、实验和工作方法的集合。根据库恩的观点，进步并非通过知识的渐进积累实现，而是通过突然的飞跃。在这篇综述中，运用各时代的科学知识所构建的范式结构，分析了当代美食学（从法国大革命至今）所经历的概念演变。由此回顾了分别由卡雷姆和埃斯科菲耶提出的第一和第二美食范式，前者基于食物的气味，后者基于酱汁的风味，它们如何被分别由法国新派烹饪和西班牙的费兰·阿德里亚引领的第三和第四范式所取代，在第三和第四范式的发展过程中，触觉、视觉和听觉在美食享受中变得愈发重要。最后，分析了美食学的新趋势：（1）西班牙小吃在全球的传播；（2）民族和融合菜肴的全球化；（3）专业美食评论日益消失，取而代之的是大众媒体有影响力的人；（4）随着地方烹饪、素食烹饪、古法烹饪、舒适食品和智能食品的发展，烹饪的可持续性不断提高；以及最后，（5）社交网络的作用日益增强，与摄影或美食拍照分享相关的“自拍美食症”在美食体验中的作用不断增大，这些趋势正引领着一种基于经典美食全球社会化的新美食范式。
