Research and Development, Givaudan France SAS, Pomacle, France.
Research and Development, Givaudan France SAS, Toulouse, France.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Aug;18(4):1140-1154. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12804. Epub 2018 Nov 28.
Healthy skin is a delicate balance between skin renewal and microbiota homeostasis, and its imbalance promotes premature aging and dermatological disorders. Skin stem cells are key actors in this process but their sensitivity to aging and external stressors such as UV reduces the skin renewal power. The skin microbiota has been recently described as active in the healthy skin, and its imbalance could trigger some disorders.
We hypothesized that reactivation of stem cells and maintenance of microbiota could be a disruptive strategy for younger and healthier skin. We thus developed a new plant extract that restores the entire skin renewal process by sequential activation from stem cells stimulation to microbiota protection.
We studied stem cells comportment in the presence of Orobanche rapum extract by survivin immunocytochemistry and caspases 3 and 9 dosages. We also analyzed epidermal differentiation markers by immunohistochemistry and lipids organization by GC/MS At the clinical level, we investigated the impact of O. rapum extract on microbiota and on skin aspect.
We demonstrated an active protection of skin stem cells through the maintenance of their clone-forming capacity and resistance to UV through the overexpression of survivin coupled to caspases inhibition. Furthermore, we showed the restoration of epidermal differentiation markers and ceramide biosynthesis favorable to orthorhombic organization. Clinical studies, including microbiota analysis, showed an active skin surface renewal coupled with microbiota protection.
We evidenced that our active ingredient is able to stimulate skin rejuvenation while protecting the cutaneous microbiota, creating healthier skin and thereby beauty.
健康的皮肤是皮肤更新和微生物组平衡之间的微妙平衡,其失衡会导致过早衰老和皮肤病。皮肤干细胞是这一过程的关键因素,但它们对衰老和紫外线等外部应激源的敏感性降低了皮肤更新能力。皮肤微生物组最近被描述为在健康皮肤中活跃,其失衡可能会引发一些疾病。
我们假设干细胞的重新激活和微生物组的维持可能是一种使皮肤更年轻、更健康的破坏性策略。因此,我们开发了一种新的植物提取物,通过从干细胞刺激到微生物组保护的顺序激活来恢复整个皮肤更新过程。
我们通过 survivin 免疫细胞化学和 caspase 3 和 9 剂量研究了 Orobanche rapum 提取物存在下干细胞的行为。我们还通过免疫组织化学分析了表皮分化标志物,通过 GC/MS 分析了脂质组织。在临床水平上,我们研究了 O. rapum 提取物对微生物组和皮肤状况的影响。
我们通过维持其克隆形成能力和通过 survivin 的过表达和 caspase 抑制来抵抗紫外线,证明了对皮肤干细胞的积极保护。此外,我们还展示了表皮分化标志物和有利于正交组织的神经酰胺生物合成的恢复。包括微生物组分析在内的临床研究表明,皮肤表面的更新与微生物组的保护是同步进行的。
我们证明了我们的活性成分能够刺激皮肤年轻化,同时保护皮肤微生物组,从而创造更健康的皮肤和美丽。