Sanz Maria Teresa, Campos Celia, Milani Massimo, Foyaca Monica, Lamy Amandine, Kurdian Karine, Trullas Carles
Isdin Medical Department, R&D and Isdin Innovation Department, Barcelona, Spain.
Laboratoire Dermscan Lyon/Villeurbanne, Lyon/Villeurbanne, France.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016 Mar;15(1):24-30. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12173. Epub 2015 Oct 1.
Epithelial regeneration in skin is achieved by the constant turnover and differentiation of keratinocytes. Epidermal and dermal stem cells compartments are fundamental for the continuous renewal of the skin. Adult stem cells are the unique source for skin tissue renewal. Plants have stem cells and plant derived stem cell extracts are now used in topical products for their potential anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle effects. A new dermocosmetic product containing apple stem cell extract, urea, creatine and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 (Ureadin Fusion Serum Lift Antiarrugas, ISDIN S.A), has been recently developed to target different aspects involved in skin aging.
To assess in vitro the effects of this new serum on the metabolic functions of human senescent fibroblasts and in vivo the anti-aging effects by clinical and instrumental evaluation.
We evaluated the effects of the serum on the mitochondrial ROS (reactive oxygen species) production in human senescent cultured fibroblasts measured at 0.1% and 1% using the Mitoread AntiOx mtROS method. In addition we evaluated the anti-ageing in vivo effect of this new serum applied on the face twice daily for 28 consecutive days and assessed by clinical and instrumental evaluation in 32 women with sensitive skin bearing wrinkles on crow's feet.
The tested serum both at 0.1% and 1% induces a significant increase in 02 consumption, cellular ATP level and a reduction in extra-cellular lactate concentration. The product reduces also significantly the mitochondrial ROS production. The clinical study shows a relevant anti-wrinkle effect in 71% of the treated women with visible effects in 68% of the subjects as soon as 7 days of treatment. A significant increase in dermal density and skin elasticity was also observed.
The use of this novel anti-aging serum demonstrated a significant improvement of aging skin signs with first visible results achieved after one week of use. The product seemed to optimize the metabolic functions in human senescent cultured fibroblast restoring a more efficient cell metabolism therefore contributing to the anti-aging properties of the product.
皮肤中的上皮再生是通过角质形成细胞的持续更新和分化来实现的。表皮和真皮干细胞区室是皮肤持续更新的基础。成体干细胞是皮肤组织更新的唯一来源。植物具有干细胞，植物衍生的干细胞提取物因其潜在的抗老化和抗皱作用现在被用于局部产品中。最近开发了一种含有苹果干细胞提取物、尿素、肌酸和棕榈酰三肽 - 38的新型皮肤美容产品（Ureadin Fusion Serum Lift Antiarrugas，ISDIN S.A），以针对皮肤衰老涉及的不同方面。
在体外评估这种新血清对人衰老成纤维细胞代谢功能的影响，并通过临床和仪器评估在体内评估其抗老化作用。
我们使用Mitoread AntiOx mtROS方法评估了该血清对以0.1%和1%浓度培养的人衰老成纤维细胞中线粒体活性氧（ROS）产生的影响。此外，我们评估了这种新血清连续28天每天两次涂抹于面部的体内抗老化效果，并通过临床和仪器评估对32名有鱼尾纹的敏感性皮肤女性进行了评估。
0.1%和1%浓度的受试血清均能显著增加氧气消耗、细胞ATP水平，并降低细胞外乳酸浓度。该产品还能显著降低线粒体ROS的产生。临床研究表明，71%的受试女性有显著的抗皱效果，68%的受试者在治疗7天后就有明显效果。还观察到真皮密度和皮肤弹性显著增加。
使用这种新型抗老化血清可显著改善衰老皮肤迹象，使用一周后即可初见成效。该产品似乎优化了人衰老培养成纤维细胞的代谢功能，恢复了更有效的细胞代谢，因此有助于该产品的抗老化特性。
