Maia Campos Patricia M B G, Melo Maisa O, Mercurio Daiane G
School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil.
Front Physiol. 2019 Mar 26;10:254. doi: 10.3389/fphys.2019.00254. eCollection 2019.
Excessively oily skin leads to clinical signs that cause discomfort to patients, such as excessive shine, enlarged pores, acne, and an imbalance of the hydrolipidic layer. In this context, a constant demand for the research and development of products that prevent these features, has been noted in the field of cosmetics and dermatology. Thus, the objective of this study is to evaluate the cutaneous characteristics of oily skin due an excessive production of sebum through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. 19 participants with different skin types were selected and the following parameters were evaluated: pore count, determination of the number of sebaceous glands and amount of sebum in infundibulum, determination of cutaneous microrelief, count of comedones, evaluation of epidermis thickness, characterization of the cellular, and comedone size and its characteristics. These evaluations were done through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The obtained results showed that different regions of the face presented different characteristics related to oiliness, quantity, and the appearance of pores and comedones. The malar region had a lower epidermis thickness and a larger number of large pores. Moreover, in this region excessive sebum production, which can be related to pores, not comedones, was noted. The nose region presented higher sebum content in the infundibulum and lower active sebaceous glands, showing a higher activity of sebaceous production in this region. The chin region presented a positive correlation between the sebum content, roughness parameter and the number of pores and comedones. As different skin properties are related and influence the appearance of undesirable clinical signs, we identified the need for a multifactorial approach for the effective treatment of oily skin. The rational development of multifunctional cosmetic products that promote the control of oily skin, that regulate the keratinization process, improve the microrelief and leads to a better epidermis and dermis structure, will not only improve oily skin conditions but will also allow for the reduction or disappearance of clinical signs that result from excessive oiliness, all of which causes concern and results in a relentless search for cosmetic and dermatological products that address the unaesthetic nature of these conditions.
油性皮肤过度会导致一些临床症状，给患者带来不适，如油光满面、毛孔粗大、痤疮以及皮肤水脂膜失衡。在这种情况下，化妆品和皮肤病学领域对研发预防这些特征的产品一直有持续需求。因此，本研究的目的是通过生物物理和皮肤成像技术评估因皮脂分泌过多导致的油性皮肤的皮肤特征。选取了19名不同皮肤类型的参与者，评估了以下参数：毛孔数量、皮脂腺数量及漏斗部皮脂量的测定、皮肤微观纹理的测定、粉刺计数、表皮厚度评估、细胞特征分析以及粉刺大小及其特征。这些评估通过生物物理和皮肤成像技术进行。所得结果表明，面部不同区域呈现出与油性、数量以及毛孔和粉刺外观相关的不同特征。脸颊区域表皮厚度较低，大毛孔数量较多。此外，在该区域发现皮脂分泌过多，这可能与毛孔而非粉刺有关。鼻子区域漏斗部皮脂含量较高，活跃皮脂腺数量较少，表明该区域皮脂分泌活性较高。下巴区域皮脂含量、粗糙度参数与毛孔和粉刺数量之间呈正相关。由于不同的皮肤特性相互关联并影响不良临床症状的出现，我们确定需要一种多因素方法来有效治疗油性皮肤。合理开发促进油性皮肤控制、调节角质化过程、改善微观纹理并使表皮和真皮结构更好的多功能化妆品，不仅会改善油性皮肤状况，还将减少或消除因油性过度导致的临床症状，所有这些都会引起关注，并导致人们不断寻找解决这些不美观状况的化妆品和皮肤病学产品。
