Department of Olympic and Professional Sport and Sport Games, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine.
V.N. Karazin Kharkiv National University, Department of Surgical diseases and Topographic Anatomy, Kharkiv, Ukraine.
Acta Bioeng Biomech. 2020;22(1):57-66.
The aim of the study was to identify the basic kinematic characteristics of the one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified climbers.
Technique of the one-arm hang in climbing among 20 leading climbers of the World and Ukraine and 20 beginner male amateur climbers was analyzed. A qualified athlete participated in the demonstration of various models of the one-arm hang performance. By means of Kinovea software 0.8.15, the kinematic characteristics of two models of the technique were analyzed (model 1 for beginner athletes, model 2 for qualified athletes).
The presence of significant differences ( p < 0.001) between beginners and qualified athletes in the magnitude of the angles between the shoulder and clavicle, between the spine and the vertical axis in the phase of fixation of the one-arm hang was revealed. The dynamics of the angle between the shoulder and clavicle from the moment of capture of the climbing hold to the phase of fixation of the hang was shown. A theoretical justification for the correct climbing technique regarding to the laws of mechanics and the laws of force interaction in kinematic chain was provided.
Beginner athletes carry out the one-arm hang mainly due to the ligamentous apparatus of the joints of the shoulder girdle with minimal inclusion of muscles, which is dangerous by trauma to the ligaments of the shoulder joint. Skilled athletes perform the one-arm hang with trunk and leg muscles included, which reduces the strain from the ligamentous apparatus and lowers the possibility of injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint.
本研究的目的是确定初学者和合格攀岩者单臂悬挂的基本运动学特征。
分析了 20 名世界和乌克兰顶尖攀岩者和 20 名男性业余初学者的单臂悬挂技术。一名合格的运动员演示了各种单臂悬挂技术模型。通过 Kinovea 软件 0.8.15 分析了两种技术模型（模型 1 适用于初学者，模型 2 适用于合格运动员）的运动学特征。
研究结果表明，初学者和合格运动员在单臂悬挂固定阶段，肩锁关节和脊柱与垂直轴之间的角度存在显著差异（p<0.001）。研究还展示了从抓握攀爬点到手悬固定阶段肩锁关节角度的动态变化。从力学定律和运动链中力相互作用的规律出发，为正确的攀爬技术提供了理论依据。
初学者主要通过肩带关节的韧带结构来完成单臂悬挂，几乎不涉及肌肉，这可能导致肩关节韧带受伤，具有一定的危险性。而熟练的运动员则通过躯干和腿部肌肉的参与来完成单臂悬挂，这减少了对韧带结构的压力，降低了肩关节韧带受伤的可能性。
