• 文献检索
  • 文档翻译
  • 深度研究
  • 学术资讯
  • Suppr Zotero 插件Zotero 插件
  • 邀请有礼
  • 套餐&价格
  • 历史记录
应用&插件
Suppr Zotero 插件Zotero 插件浏览器插件Mac 客户端Windows 客户端微信小程序
定价
高级版会员购买积分包购买API积分包
服务
文献检索文档翻译深度研究API 文档MCP 服务
关于我们
关于 Suppr公司介绍联系我们用户协议隐私条款
关注我们

Suppr 超能文献

核心技术专利:CN118964589B侵权必究
粤ICP备2023148730 号-1Suppr @ 2026

文献检索

告别复杂PubMed语法,用中文像聊天一样搜索,搜遍4000万医学文献。AI智能推荐,让科研检索更轻松。

立即免费搜索

文件翻译

保留排版,准确专业,支持PDF/Word/PPT等文件格式,支持 12+语言互译。

免费翻译文档

深度研究

AI帮你快速写综述,25分钟生成高质量综述,智能提取关键信息,辅助科研写作。

立即免费体验

一款用于测量竞技攀岩中上身力量的商用测力传感器的有效性和可靠性

Validity and Reliability of a Commercial Force Sensor for the Measurement of Upper Body Strength in Sport Climbing.

作者信息

Labott Berit K, Held Steffen, Wiedenmann Tim, Rappelt Ludwig, Wicker Pamela, Donath Lars

机构信息

Institute of Sport Sciences, Otto-von-Guericke University, Magdeburg, Germany.

Department of Intervention Research in Exercise Training, German Sport University Cologne, Cologne, Germany.

出版信息

Front Sports Act Living. 2022 Jul 22;4:838358. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.838358. eCollection 2022.

DOI:10.3389/fspor.2022.838358
PMID:35935067
原文链接:https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9353027/
Abstract

Recreational and professional climbing is gaining popularity. Thus, valid and reliable infield strength monitoring and testing devices are required. This study aims at assessing the validity as well as within- and between-day reliability of two climbing-specific hanging positions for assessing the maximum force with a new force measurement device. Therefore, 25 experienced male ( = 16) and female ( = 9) climbers (age: 25.5 ± 4.2 years, height: 176.0 ± 9.9 cm, weight: 69.7 ± 14.5 kg, body composition: 11.8 ± 5.7% body fat, climbing level: 17.5 ± 3.9 International Rock Climbing Research Association scale) were randomly tested with climbing-specific hang board strength tests (one-handed rung pulling and one-handed bent arm lock-off at 90°). The Tindeq, a load cell-based sensor for assessing different force-related variables, was employed together with a force plate (Kistler Quattro Jump) during both conditions. Data analysis revealed excellent validity for assessment with Tindeq: The intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC) was 0.99 (both positions), while the standard error of the measurement (SEM), coefficient of variation (CV), and limits of agreement (LoA) showed low values. Within day reliability for the assessment with Tindeq was excellent: rung pulling showed an ICC of 0.90 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98; between-day reliability was excellent as well: rung pulling indicated an ICC of 0.95 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98. Other reliability indicators such as SEM, CV, and LoA were low. The Tindeq progressor can be applied for the cross-sectional and longitudinal climbing strength assessment as this device can detect training-induced changes reliably.

摘要

休闲攀岩和专业攀岩越来越受欢迎。因此,需要有效且可靠的现场力量监测和测试设备。本研究旨在评估两种特定于攀岩的悬挂姿势在使用新型测力装置评估最大力量时的有效性以及日内和日间可靠性。因此,对25名经验丰富的男性(=16)和女性(=9)攀岩者(年龄:25.5±4.2岁,身高:176.0±9.9厘米,体重:69.7±14.5千克,身体成分:体脂11.8±5.7%,攀岩水平:17.5±3.9国际攀岩研究协会等级)进行了特定于攀岩的挂板力量测试(单手抓握横杆拉动和单手90°屈臂悬垂)的随机测试。在两种情况下,均使用了基于测力传感器的Tindeq来评估不同的力量相关变量,并结合了测力板(奇石乐Quattro Jump)。数据分析表明,Tindeq评估具有出色的有效性:组内相关系数(ICC)为0.99(两种姿势),而测量标准误差(SEM)、变异系数(CV)和一致性界限(LoA)显示值较低。Tindeq评估的日内可靠性极佳:抓握横杆拉动的ICC为0.90,屈臂悬垂的ICC为0.98;日间可靠性也极佳:抓握横杆拉动的ICC为0.95,屈臂悬垂的ICC为0.98。其他可靠性指标如SEM、CV和LoA较低。Tindeq进度器可用于横断面和纵向攀岩力量评估,因为该设备能够可靠地检测训练引起的变化。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/f46c/9353027/2d80a2fffe92/fspor-04-838358-g0002.jpg
https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/f46c/9353027/35c78928eabf/fspor-04-838358-g0001.jpg
https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/f46c/9353027/2d80a2fffe92/fspor-04-838358-g0002.jpg
https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/f46c/9353027/35c78928eabf/fspor-04-838358-g0001.jpg
https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/f46c/9353027/2d80a2fffe92/fspor-04-838358-g0002.jpg

相似文献

1
Validity and Reliability of a Commercial Force Sensor for the Measurement of Upper Body Strength in Sport Climbing.一款用于测量竞技攀岩中上身力量的商用测力传感器的有效性和可靠性
Front Sports Act Living. 2022 Jul 22;4:838358. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.838358. eCollection 2022.
2
Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing.攀岩中手指力量和耐力测量的可靠性与有效性
Res Q Exerc Sport. 2018 Jun;89(2):246-254. doi: 10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484. Epub 2018 Mar 26.
3
Reliability and Validity of a Method for the Assessment of Sport Rock Climbers' Isometric Finger Strength.一种评估运动攀岩者等长手指力量的方法的可靠性和有效性。
J Strength Cond Res. 2022 Aug 1;36(8):2277-2282. doi: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000003548. Epub 2020 Mar 4.
4
Low-intensity climbing with blood flow restriction over 5 weeks increases grip and elbow flexor endurance in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial.五周的低强度血流限制攀爬可提高高级攀岩者的握力和屈肘耐力:一项随机对照试验。
Eur J Sport Sci. 2023 Oct;23(10):2031-2037. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2023.2207079. Epub 2023 May 11.
5
MBboard: Validity and Reliability of a New Tool Developed to Evaluate Specific Strength in Rock Climbers.MB板:一种用于评估攀岩者特定力量的新工具的有效性和可靠性。
J Hum Kinet. 2021 Jul 28;79:5-13. doi: 10.2478/hukin-2021-0060. eCollection 2021 Jul.
6
Validity of the Entralpi force plate in the assessment of finger flexor performance metrics in rock climbers.Entralpi测力板在评估攀岩者手指屈肌性能指标中的有效性。
Sports Biomech. 2024 Dec;23(12):3246-3256. doi: 10.1080/14763141.2023.2259356. Epub 2023 Sep 18.
7
Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance.攀爬者在握持和身体姿势下的功能性握力测量的可靠性和有效性:与技能和攀爬表现的关联。
Res Q Exerc Sport. 2023 Sep;94(3):627-637. doi: 10.1080/02701367.2022.2035662. Epub 2022 Apr 22.
8
Acute effects of kinesio taping on muscular strength and endurance parameters of the finger flexors in sport climbing: A randomised, controlled crossover trial.运动攀岩中肌内效贴扎对指屈肌肌肉力量和耐力参数的急性影响:一项随机对照交叉试验。
Eur J Sport Sci. 2020 May;20(4):427-436. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2019.1633415. Epub 2019 Jun 29.
9
The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention.阻力训练、攀岩表现与 injury prevention 之间的联系。 注:这里“injury prevention”直译为“损伤预防”,结合语境可能更通顺的表达可以是“预防受伤” 。完整准确译文为:阻力训练、攀岩表现与预防受伤之间的联系。
Sports Med Open. 2024 Jan 19;10(1):10. doi: 10.1186/s40798-024-00677-w.
10
Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers.精英攀岩者和业余攀岩者的人体测量学、力量、耐力及柔韧性特征
J Sports Sci. 1996 Aug;14(4):301-9. doi: 10.1080/02640419608727715.

本文引用的文献

1
Which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in sport climbers?在运动攀岩者中,测量最大悬挂时间最可靠的边缘深度是多少?
Gait Posture. 2022 Jan;91:59-65. doi: 10.1016/j.gaitpost.2021.09.200. Epub 2021 Oct 7.
2
Muscle strength and endurance in high-level rock climbers.高水平攀岩运动员的肌肉力量和耐力。
Sports Biomech. 2024 Aug;23(8):1057-1072. doi: 10.1080/14763141.2021.1916577. Epub 2021 May 3.
3
Ecological Validity and "Ecological Validity".生态效度与“生态效度”
Perspect Psychol Sci. 2021 Mar;16(2):466-471. doi: 10.1177/1745691620966791. Epub 2021 Feb 16.
4
Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?孤立手指弯曲测试与全身爬绳穷尽测试?如何评估运动攀岩者的耐力?
Eur J Appl Physiol. 2021 May;121(5):1337-1348. doi: 10.1007/s00421-021-04595-7. Epub 2021 Feb 16.
5
Grip Strength-Endurance in Ambitious and Recreational Climbers: Does the Strength Decrement Index Serve as a Feasible Measure?有抱负的和娱乐性的攀岩者的握力耐力:力量递减指数是否作为一种可行的测量方法?
Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2020 Dec 19;17(24):9530. doi: 10.3390/ijerph17249530.
6
Force-Velocity-Power Profile in High-Elite Boulder, Lead, and Speed Climber Competitors.高水平精英抱石、攀岩和速度攀岩运动员的力-速度-功率曲线
Int J Sports Physiol Perform. 2020 Jun 22;15(7):1012-1018. doi: 10.1123/ijspp.2019-0437. Print 2020 Aug 1.
7
Comparative biomechanical characteristics of one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified athletes.初学者和合格运动员单臂悬挂攀爬的比较生物力学特征。
Acta Bioeng Biomech. 2020;22(1):57-66.
8
Antifragility in Climbing: Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training.攀岩中的反脆弱性:确定运动表现训练的最佳压力负荷
Front Psychol. 2020 Mar 11;11:272. doi: 10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00272. eCollection 2020.
9
Reliability and Validity of a Method for the Assessment of Sport Rock Climbers' Isometric Finger Strength.一种评估运动攀岩者等长手指力量的方法的可靠性和有效性。
J Strength Cond Res. 2022 Aug 1;36(8):2277-2282. doi: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000003548. Epub 2020 Mar 4.
10
Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers.对比顶绳攀登者和先锋攀登者的专项力量和耐力。
PLoS One. 2019 Sep 19;14(9):e0222529. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0222529. eCollection 2019.