Labott Berit K, Held Steffen, Wiedenmann Tim, Rappelt Ludwig, Wicker Pamela, Donath Lars
Institute of Sport Sciences, Otto-von-Guericke University, Magdeburg, Germany.
Department of Intervention Research in Exercise Training, German Sport University Cologne, Cologne, Germany.
Front Sports Act Living. 2022 Jul 22;4:838358. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.838358. eCollection 2022.
Recreational and professional climbing is gaining popularity. Thus, valid and reliable infield strength monitoring and testing devices are required. This study aims at assessing the validity as well as within- and between-day reliability of two climbing-specific hanging positions for assessing the maximum force with a new force measurement device. Therefore, 25 experienced male ( = 16) and female ( = 9) climbers (age: 25.5 ± 4.2 years, height: 176.0 ± 9.9 cm, weight: 69.7 ± 14.5 kg, body composition: 11.8 ± 5.7% body fat, climbing level: 17.5 ± 3.9 International Rock Climbing Research Association scale) were randomly tested with climbing-specific hang board strength tests (one-handed rung pulling and one-handed bent arm lock-off at 90°). The Tindeq, a load cell-based sensor for assessing different force-related variables, was employed together with a force plate (Kistler Quattro Jump) during both conditions. Data analysis revealed excellent validity for assessment with Tindeq: The intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC) was 0.99 (both positions), while the standard error of the measurement (SEM), coefficient of variation (CV), and limits of agreement (LoA) showed low values. Within day reliability for the assessment with Tindeq was excellent: rung pulling showed an ICC of 0.90 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98; between-day reliability was excellent as well: rung pulling indicated an ICC of 0.95 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98. Other reliability indicators such as SEM, CV, and LoA were low. The Tindeq progressor can be applied for the cross-sectional and longitudinal climbing strength assessment as this device can detect training-induced changes reliably.
休闲攀岩和专业攀岩越来越受欢迎。因此,需要有效且可靠的现场力量监测和测试设备。本研究旨在评估两种特定于攀岩的悬挂姿势在使用新型测力装置评估最大力量时的有效性以及日内和日间可靠性。因此,对25名经验丰富的男性(=16)和女性(=9)攀岩者(年龄:25.5±4.2岁,身高:176.0±9.9厘米,体重:69.7±14.5千克,身体成分:体脂11.8±5.7%,攀岩水平:17.5±3.9国际攀岩研究协会等级)进行了特定于攀岩的挂板力量测试(单手抓握横杆拉动和单手90°屈臂悬垂)的随机测试。在两种情况下,均使用了基于测力传感器的Tindeq来评估不同的力量相关变量,并结合了测力板(奇石乐Quattro Jump)。数据分析表明,Tindeq评估具有出色的有效性:组内相关系数(ICC)为0.99(两种姿势),而测量标准误差(SEM)、变异系数(CV)和一致性界限(LoA)显示值较低。Tindeq评估的日内可靠性极佳:抓握横杆拉动的ICC为0.90,屈臂悬垂的ICC为0.98;日间可靠性也极佳:抓握横杆拉动的ICC为0.95,屈臂悬垂的ICC为0.98。其他可靠性指标如SEM、CV和LoA较低。Tindeq进度器可用于横断面和纵向攀岩力量评估,因为该设备能够可靠地检测训练引起的变化。