L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Clichy, France.
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China.
Skin Res Technol. 2021 Nov;27(6):1116-1127. doi: 10.1111/srt.13071. Epub 2021 Jul 1.
To evaluate the impact of Facial radiance or Glow on the perception of age (PA) and to assess which facial signs most influence PA.
The faces of 1058 differently aged women (18-80 years) of six different ethnicities/countries (China, Japan, Korea, India, South Africa, and Brazil) were photographed under standard conditions. These allowed to focus on 20 different facial signs that were further graded by experts, using referential Atlases dedicated to facial aging. In each of the six countries, 100 local women were recruited as naïve panels to express their perceptions on Glow and Age on each full-face photograph (blind coded) of the local studied woman.
A decreased Glow/Radiance appears clearly associated with an increased perceived age in all studied subjects, especially among Chinese, Japanese, and South African women. With regard facial signs, Skin texture (Wrinkles of all kinds), Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation signs prevail in almost all women at the exception of South African women where Pigmentation signs and Cheek skin pores largely predominate in the perception of both Glow and PA. Pigmentation signs are of a very high weight among Chinese and Japanese women.
Despite some collective agreements, the present study shows some specificities within the women of the six ethnicities/countries. PA, a core index of antiaging strategies, goes along with facial Glow in almost all studied women. The duller the facial skin, the older it is perceived.
评估面部光泽度或光泽度对年龄感知（PA）的影响，并评估哪些面部特征对 PA 影响最大。
拍摄了来自六个不同种族/国家（中国、日本、韩国、印度、南非和巴西）的 1058 名不同年龄女性（18-80 岁）的面部照片，拍摄条件标准。这些照片重点关注 20 种不同的面部特征，这些特征由专家进一步分级，使用专门针对面部衰老的参考图谱。在每个国家，招募了 100 名当地女性作为天真小组，对当地研究女性的每张全脸照片（盲码）的光泽度和年龄感知表达自己的看法。
在所有研究对象中，光泽度/辐射的降低明显与感知年龄的增加相关，尤其是在中国、日本和南非女性中。就面部特征而言，皮肤质地（各种皱纹）、下垂/下垂和色素沉着迹象在几乎所有女性中都很普遍，除了南非女性，在那里色素沉着迹象和脸颊皮肤毛孔在对光泽度和 PA 的感知中占主导地位。色素沉着迹象在中国和日本女性中权重非常高。
尽管存在一些共识，但本研究显示了六个种族/国家的女性存在一些特殊性。PA 是抗衰老策略的核心指标，几乎所有研究女性的面部光泽度都与其相关。面部皮肤越暗淡，感知年龄越大。
