Manose Health and Beauty Research Center, Mueang, Chiang Mai, 50200, Thailand.
Faculty of Engineering and Technology, North-Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai, 50200, Thailand.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Dec;42(6):622-631. doi: 10.1111/ics.12658. Epub 2020 Sep 24.
To evaluate the anti-ageing activity of cream containing the methanolic purple glutinous rice extract loaded in niosomes.
The in vitro biological activities of the purple glutinous rice extracted by methanol maceration were determined. The extract loaded in niosomes and the cream containing the niosomes were developed. The in vivo anti-ageing activity in 20 human volunteers including skin hydration, pigmentation, roughness and elasticity after daily application for 28 days compared to at initial was evaluated by Corneometer, Mexameter, Visiometer and Cutometer, respectively.
The purple glutinous rice extract showed free radical scavenging (SC ), lipid peroxidation inhibition (IPC ), metal ion chelating (CC ) and tyrosinase inhibition (IC ) values at 32.31 ± 1.28, 57.40 ± 2.12, 85.05 ± 5.43 and 43.89 ± 2.14 mg/mL which were 0.00031, 0.011, 0.0078 and 0.0016 times of the standards (0.01 ± 0.00, 0.62 ± 0.14, 0.66 ± 0.05 and 0.07 ± 0.01), respectively. The purple glutinous rice extract contained 0.35 µg of anthocyanin/1 mg of the extract determined by HPLC. After loaded in niosomes, the solubility of the extract was not only increased in various solvents, but also the chemical stability in different environments (weak base, reducing agent and acid salt) was improved. The cream formulation containing niosomes loaded with 1%w/v of the purple glutinous rice extract indicated the anthocyanin remaining percentages after 6 cycles of heating and cooling test at 52.28% of the initial. For in vivo anti-ageing activities, cream containing niosomes loaded with the extract gave significant decreased melanin index and skin roughness reduction of -14.05 and -9.95% of the initial, respectively. The % changes of the increased skin hydration, skin elastic extension and skin elastic recovery when applied on human volunteers' skin with this formulation were +48.73, -24.51 and +35.98%, respectively.
The cream containing niosomes loaded with the 1%w/v methanolic purple glutinous rice extract gave not only the suitable in vitro antioxidant activity and physical stability of the active anthocyanin, but also the superior in vivo anti-ageing activity on human skin compared to the cream base and before application which can be further developed as a novel anti-ageing cosmeceutical product.
评价载入微囊中甲醇紫糯米提取物的乳膏的抗衰老活性。
测定甲醇浸渍紫糯米提取物的体外生物学活性。开发载入微囊的提取物和含有微囊的乳膏。通过 Corneometer、Mexameter、Visiometer 和 Cutometer 分别评估 20 名志愿者在每天应用 28 天后皮肤的水分、色素沉着、粗糙度和弹性的体内抗衰老活性与初始值相比的变化。
紫糯米提取物的自由基清除(SC)、脂质过氧化抑制(IPC)、金属离子螯合(CC)和酪氨酸酶抑制(IC)值分别为 32.31±1.28、57.40±2.12、85.05±5.43 和 43.89±2.14mg/mL,这分别是标准值的 0.00031、0.011、0.0078 和 0.0016 倍(0.01±0.00、0.62±0.14、0.66±0.05 和 0.07±0.01)。HPLC 测定紫糯米提取物中含有 0.35μg/ml 的花色苷。载入微囊后,提取物在各种溶剂中的溶解度不仅增加,而且在不同环境(弱碱、还原剂和酸式盐)中的化学稳定性也得到提高。含有 1%w/v 紫糯米提取物的微囊载体制剂在 52.28%的初始值下,经过 6 个加热和冷却循环测试后,花色苷的残留率为 52.28%。在体内抗衰老活性方面,含有微囊载体制剂的乳膏可显著降低黑色素指数和皮肤粗糙度,分别减少初始值的-14.05%和-9.95%。当应用于志愿者皮肤时,该配方增加的皮肤水分、皮肤弹性延伸和皮肤弹性恢复的%变化分别为+48.73%、-24.51%和+35.98%。
与乳膏基质和应用前相比,含有 1%w/v 甲醇紫糯米提取物的微囊载体制剂不仅具有合适的体外抗氧化活性和物理稳定性的活性花青素,而且对人体皮肤具有优异的体内抗衰老活性,可进一步开发为新型抗衰老化妆品。