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芳香植物在化妆品中的应用:对皮肤健康的益处和应用。

Aromatic plants as cosmeceuticals: benefits and applications for skin health.

机构信息

Environmental and Computational Chemistry Group. School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Zaragocilla Campus, University of Cartagena, Cartagena, 130014, Colombia.

Functional Toxicology Group. School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Zaragocilla Campus, University of Cartagena, Cartagena, 130014, Colombia.

出版信息

Planta. 2024 Nov 5;260(6):132. doi: 10.1007/s00425-024-04550-8.

Abstract

This review highlights the potential of aromatic plants as natural antioxidants in cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging and promote health and rejuvenation. Aromatic plant extracts, essential oils, or their phytoconstituents have a long history of use in skincare, dating back centuries. Currently, these plant-based sources are extensively researched and utilized in the cosmeceutical industry to formulate products that enhance skin health and promote a youthful appearance. These plants' diverse bioactivities and sensory properties make them ideal ingredients for developing anti-aging agents recommended for maintaining healthy skin through self-care routines, offering a natural alternative to synthetic products. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in the dermis, attributed to intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors, particularly prolonged sun exposure, is identified as the primary cause of skin aging. Plant extracts enriched with antioxidant compounds including flavonoids, phenolics, tannins, stilbenes, terpenes, and steroids, are fundamental to counteract ROS-induced oxidative stress. Noteworthy effects observed from the use of these natural sources include photoprotective, senolytic, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, and anti-tyrosinase activities, encompassing benefits like photoprotection, wound healing, skin whitening, anti-pigmentation, tissue regeneration, among others. This review highlights several globally distributed aromatic plant species renowned for their benefits for skin, including Foeniculum vulgare Mill. (Apiaceae), Calendula officinalis L. and Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), Thymus vulgaris L. (Lamiaceae), Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Lauraceae), Althaea officinalis L. (Malvaceae), Malaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (Myrtaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf (Poaceae), Rubus idaeus L. (Rosaceae), and Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck (Rutaceae), emphasizing their potential in skincare formulations and their role in promoting health and rejuvenation.

摘要

本综述强调了芳香植物作为天然抗氧化剂在化妆品中的潜力,以对抗皮肤衰老,促进健康和恢复活力。芳香植物提取物、精油或其植物成分在护肤品中的应用历史悠久,可以追溯到几个世纪前。目前,这些基于植物的来源在化妆品行业中得到了广泛的研究和利用,用于制定增强皮肤健康和促进年轻外观的产品。这些植物的多种生物活性和感官特性使它们成为开发抗衰老剂的理想成分,这些抗衰老剂建议通过自我护理常规来维持健康的皮肤,为合成产品提供天然替代品。真皮中活性氧(ROS)的积累归因于内在和外在的衰老因素,特别是长时间的阳光暴露,被认为是皮肤衰老的主要原因。富含抗氧化化合物的植物提取物,包括类黄酮、酚类、单宁、芪类、萜类和甾体,是对抗 ROS 诱导的氧化应激的基础。使用这些天然来源观察到的显著效果包括光保护、衰老细胞清除、抗炎、抗皱、抗粉刺和抗酪氨酸酶活性,涵盖了光保护、伤口愈合、皮肤美白、抗色素沉着、组织再生等益处。本综述强调了几种分布广泛的芳香植物物种,它们以对皮肤的益处而闻名,包括 Foeniculum vulgare Mill.(伞形科)、Calendula officinalis L. 和 Matricaria chamomilla L.(菊科)、Thymus vulgaris L.(唇形科)、Litsea cubeba(Lour.)Pers.(樟科)、Althaea officinalis L.(锦葵科)、Malaleuca alternifolia(Maiden y Betche)Cheel(桃金娘科)、Cymbopogon citratus(DC.)Stapf(禾本科)、Rubus idaeus L.(蔷薇科)和 Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck(芸香科),强调它们在护肤品配方中的潜力及其在促进健康和恢复活力方面的作用。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/c2e0/11538177/0e3079c6d479/425_2024_4550_Fig1_HTML.jpg

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