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蓝色牛排是怎么回事?关于蓝色食物出人意料的受欢迎程度。

What's the Story With Blue Steak? On the Unexpected Popularity of Blue Foods.

作者信息

Spence Charles

机构信息

Crossmodal Research Laboratory, University of Oxford, Oxford, United Kingdom.

出版信息

Front Psychol. 2021 Mar 2;12:638703. doi: 10.3389/fpsyg.2021.638703. eCollection 2021.

Abstract

Is blue food desirable or disgusting? The answer, it would seem, is both, but it really depends on the food in which the color happens to be present. It turns out that the oft-cited aversive response to blue meat may not even have been scientifically validated, despite the fact that blue food coloring is often added to discombobulate diners. In the case of drinks, however, there has been a recent growth of successful new blue product launches in everything from beer to tea, and from wine to gin, arguing that coloring food products blue is more than simply a contemporary fad. In fact, the current interest in blue food coloring builds on the color's earlier appearance in everything from blue curacao to blue-raspberry candyfloss (cotton candy), and thereafter a number of soft drinks. Over the years, the combination of blue coloring with raspberry flavoring has also appeared in everything from bubble-gum to patriotic pop rocks (popping candy in The United States). Ultimately, it is the rarity of naturally-blue foods that is likely what makes this color so special. As such, blue food coloring can both work effectively to attract the visual attention of the shopper while, at the same time, being linked to a range of different flavors (since this is one of the few color-flavor mappings that are essentially arbitrary) depending on the food format in which it happens to appear. Note also that the basic descriptor "blue" covers a wide range of hues having a range of different associations, hence eliciting different reactions (be they positive or negative). While blue was once associated with artificiality, a growing number of natural blue food colorings have come onto the market in recent years thus perhaps changing the dominant associations that many consumers may have with this most unusual of food colors.

摘要

蓝色食物是令人向往还是令人厌恶呢?答案似乎是两者皆有,但这实际上取决于碰巧呈现这种颜色的食物。事实证明,尽管蓝色食用色素常常被添加进去以迷惑用餐者,但人们常提到的对蓝色肉类的厌恶反应甚至可能都未得到科学验证。然而,就饮品而言,近来从啤酒到茶、从葡萄酒到杜松子酒,各类成功推出的新型蓝色产品不断增加,这表明给食品添加蓝色不仅仅是一种当代时尚。事实上,当前对蓝色食用色素的兴趣建立在这种颜色早期在从蓝色柑香酒到蓝树莓棉花糖,以及此后的一些软饮料中的出现之上。多年来,蓝色色素与树莓口味的组合还出现在从泡泡糖到具有爱国色彩的跳跳糖(美国的跳跳糖)等各类食品中。归根结底,天然蓝色食物的稀缺性可能正是这种颜色如此特别的原因所在。如此一来,蓝色食用色素既能有效地吸引购物者的视觉注意力,同时又能根据它所出现的食品形式与一系列不同口味联系起来(因为这是少数几种基本上任意的颜色 - 口味映射之一)。还要注意的是,基本描述词“蓝色”涵盖了具有一系列不同联想的广泛色调,因此会引发不同的反应(无论是积极的还是消极的)。虽然蓝色曾经与人工性相关联,但近年来越来越多的天然蓝色食用色素进入市场,从而可能改变了许多消费者对这种最不寻常的食用色素的主要联想。

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