Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité-Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany.
Merck KGaA, Frankfurterstr. 250, 64293 Darmstadt, Germany.
Molecules. 2021 Mar 16;26(6):1649. doi: 10.3390/molecules26061649.
The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30-40% SC depth ( < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30-40% SC depth ( < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.
使用共聚焦拉曼显微镜，在 12 名志愿者中进行了一项随机、安慰剂对照、双盲研究，共 14 天，研究了一种局部应用制剂对表皮角质层（SC）屏障相关参数的影响，该制剂含有天然保湿因子（NMF）的成分。该方法可以阐明即使在 NMF 的成分天然存在于 SC 中，真实制剂和安慰剂之间的细微差异。这种区分通过常规方法是不可能非侵入性地进行的。在这项研究中，我们发现应用的真实制剂和安慰剂制剂破坏了 SC 中水分、NMF 和脂质的平衡。通过将其纳入 NMF 分子的简化补充，可以减轻制剂的不良影响。作为长期效应，在 30-40%SC 深度（<0.05）下，强烈结合水的量增加，在 30-40%SC 深度（<0.05）下，弱结合水的量减少，对于真实制剂。该补充剂还出人意料地能够防止选定深度处细胞间脂质（ICL）的去组织化。从长远来看，真实制剂处理将 ICL 的横向去组织化限制在上部 20%SC 深度。需要进一步研究来阐明这些因素在 SC 中的相互作用，以更好地了解它们对皮肤平衡和屏障功能的贡献。对这些天然存在的成分相互作用的理解有助于未来开发和优化针对银屑病、特应性皮炎、鱼鳞病等疾病的局部治疗方法，这些疾病的皮肤屏障被破坏。
