Darvin Maxim E, Schleusener Johannes, Lademann Jürgen, Choe Chun-Sik
Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology (CCP), Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Berlin, Germany.
Kim Il Sung University, Pyongyang, Democratic People's Republic of Korea.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2022;35(3):125-136. doi: 10.1159/000521416. Epub 2022 Jan 10.
Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for noninvasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids (ICLs), folding properties of keratin, water mobility, and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of ICLs, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in noninvasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.
共聚焦拉曼显微光谱在皮肤病学和美容学中被广泛用于分析皮肤成分（脂质、天然保湿因子分子、水）的浓度以及化妆品/药物制剂在人体角质层（SC）中的体内渗透深度。近年来，研究表明共聚焦拉曼显微光谱还可用于非侵入性体内深度依赖性测定SC的生理参数，如细胞间脂质（ICL）的层状和侧向组织、角蛋白的折叠特性、水的流动性和氢键状态。结果表明，最强的皮肤屏障功能主要表现为ICL的正交组织，在SC深度约20-40%处提供，这与SC中与周围成分结合的水的最大状态有关。角蛋白的二级和三级结构决定了SC中的水结合，这是深度依赖性的。本文展示了共聚焦拉曼显微光谱在皮肤非侵入性研究中的技术可能性和优势，并总结了近期人体SC体内研究的结果。
